Front Axle 4WD Disconnect

[Trail X]

is there is specific type of grease you would recommend? I have a metallic rattle on the driver side that seems to be coming from the from drivers side wheel area. And now the front sway bar link on that side is making noise.

Would you say that the rattle i hear only on the driver side and mainly when I turn right would be the same issue you had??? I checked the brake shield. It seems to be clear. But the rattle is still there.

thanx

Z

My understanding is that normal CV or chassis grease would be fine. I'll be using Mobil 1 synthetic grease.

The disconnect is on the passenger side, so if you're hearing sounds from the drivers side only, it could be the diff. Keep in mind that sounds reflect and can sometimes sound like they're coming from a particular side, but actually originate from the other. The best tell-tale sign is to jiggle the tripod joint. If it has excessive play, you may want to check your outer bearing, which is the bearing that will most likely go bad first.

[Zero]

Rock on bro! Thanx for the suggestions. Im gona be spending the day at my shop tomorrow, so Im gona try to get the truck up on the lift for some post Borrego carnage inspections, and figure out this damn rattling.

[Trail X]

All the parts came in. Special thanks to Dorman with the assistance!
Everything is new, except for the outer housings, shift collar, and inner seal.


Step 1 is installing the bearings. Note the red locktite used. This is to help prevent the bearings from spinning in the press fit.


Installed using a normal hammer. Just remember to seat it by hand, then lightly tap it in using a star pattern (similar to tightening lugs).


(Not pictured - Install the outer seal in a similar method to the bearings - but be sure to use a piece of wood. Do not hammer directly on the seal.)

Begin the greasing process. I used a Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease. Begin by working grease into the bearings.


Start adding parts and more grease (this was a test-fit of the gear in the bearing, I added more grease!)


Greasing the fork... ensuring the grease gets on any points that rub:


Parts assembled, time for the gasket. I used ultra-black RTV.


Stick it together, make sure the parts align, and begin inserting the bolts.


Steering knuckle disassembled for reinstall of the CV shaft.


Installation of the disconnect and bolts:


Back together and working well - so far!

(Picture credits go to my wife!)

[Zero]

Amazing write up!

What was your total cost in parts?

I may do something likes this in the near future just to make everything nice and new. i bought my truck with 72,000 kms on it, and God only knows how it was abused or taken care of by the previous owner

[Trail X]

Cost was a bit high... these are estimates:

CV shaft: $60 - Rock Auto (yours may be ok, but the OEM CV boot is what kills us lifted guys)
Gears & Fork: $210 - GM parts direct (yours may be ok, though)
Seals, bearings, washers: $60 - GM parts direct (everyone that rebuilds will need to replace these)
Grease, etc: $20 - Autozone
--------------------------------
So the total was probably about $350.

I'll probably do an official article for ORTB, I know I won't be the only one of us to have to rebuild this.

[Trail X]

Wrote up a quick article for ORTB...

http://www.offroadtb.com/articles/tech- ... disconnect

If anyone has anything to contribute... or if you see anything incorrect, please post up or email me!

[intimadatorsquizz]

Glad you got it all back together James. I'm glad I could help, but could you Please fix the Doorman to Dorman

Thanks

[Trail X]

Yes yes! Fixed! Sorry about that one!

[Gordinho80]

Nice Write Up!

[Zero]

I think I am gona jump on the rebuild kit when Dorman gets that out to the public.

[Hatchet669]

I think I am gona jump on the rebuild kit when Dorman gets that out to the public.

thats what i'm waiting on...

[Trail X]

If you think you have this issue, I wouldn't wait. I did, and I ended up destroying my gears in the process. If you can get to this early enough, you may be able to save the gears and the CV shaft AND about $250 worth of parts.

[bgwolfpack]

It's almost too bad you couldn't drill and tap a Zerk fitting in the case.

[Trail X]

I had considered it, but you can over-grease things.

[bgwolfpack]

James, how much play do you have through the CV shaft bearing when not engaged?

Got underneath mine this morning to check it out and not engaged it moves as if the outside bearing itself is free floating. Meaning it will move by hand, up and down/side to side a good amount or more. I know you said in your write up to only check it when engaged but engagement may throw off the test.
Bearing in mind that this bearing/shaft, engaged or not, spins for every mile the truck travels.

If your problem started with the outside bearing than I doubt off roading had anything to do with the units demise or lift angle. You just drive too much/poor engineering.

[Trail X]

My fixed tripod housing moves maybe a 1/32" up and down when engaged or disengaged (no difference). It feels very tight, but it can still wiggle just a hair.

With the bad bearing, mine would move 1/4" or more. A 'floating bearing' feeling can't be a good thing. Did you check the disconnect to ensure it will still engage?

If you're worried, it's fairly simple to check the outer bearing. Just take the CV shaft out (ok, it's easier said than done), and look in there. The outer bearing is visible.

You may be correct that the disconnect didn't fail due to the lift, however it probably failed differently or at least faster. I had 90k miles on the truck.

[bgwolfpack]

Thanks James. I'll probably pull mine off here real quick and take a look.

One other thing to consider, is Roadies view on not off roading using 4 auto. Scary, but he could be right. The wear and tear on this unit seems to have a very limited lifespan.

[Trail X]

A4WD shouldn't be harmful to this part of the truck. A4WD is more dangerous to the transfer case itself. There is a small bearing in the earlier years that can fail when subjected to the high impulse loads of the front wheel clutches engaging.

A4WD should be safe to use on patchy roads as long as you're being easy on the engine, which reduces the shock loads on the case.

If you're on a roadway that is fully covered with dirt, snow, or ice, then A4WD has no reason to be engaged.

[The Roadie]

A4WD shouldn't be harmful to this part of the truck. A4WD is more dangerous to the transfer case itself.

Yep. That's the other maintenance-related issue.

The drivability issue is also important. A4WD used when descending slippery slopes is only going to give you compression braking on the rear wheels until they break loose, then the fronts will get engaged with some abruptness. It's the unpredictability of the engagement that bothers the heck out of me. But in steep descents I'm in 4LO anyway. But I wish the transfer case wasn't so clever. Someday my encoder motor will break and I'll just replace it with a lever/cable deal and be done with it. 2LO is a bit easier if it's done mechanically.

[Hatchet669]

no word of kit yet

think i mite have to go see the dealer soon to get some parts...