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by Trail X » Mon Nov 25, 2013 3:04 pm

Aries wrote:
JamesDowning wrote:I'm doing a front end overhaul. It will be a few weeks for me too.

I have yet to hear anything about my order :hissyfit: . I have a few more front end part to buy and will need to schedule tires and alignment in the next 8 weeks.
Just for future sake, the tracking number was in the emailed receipt from Wheeler's.
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by DirtyBacon04 » Mon Nov 25, 2013 3:10 pm

Just picked up mine from the front porch! They sure are perrty, i reckon.

Dont know when I'll install them... Use them as super expensive paper weights for a while
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by Trail X » Mon Nov 25, 2013 3:11 pm

The more I look at the bump stops, the less worried I am. I think with the lift we are putting on these, smaller bump stops wouldn't do anything, and you'd end up just collapsing the springs down on itself before the bumpstop impacted the shock housing. That sort of issue is exactly why many of us are having sagging springs with these inside-the-strut lift blocks. We haven't elongated the internal bump stops along with the lift, so we are potentially stressing the springs to the yield point before they reach the compression bump stop.

A sagging spring like Eric's example isn't directly because he beats so hard on his truck. Its more directly because he is compressing his front springs beyond the yield point, and the springs are taking a set. Just like bending a paperclip beyond the point that it springs back into shape. And if you bend that paperclip too many times, well, you know what can happen. So in conclusion, I'm actually happy that the larger internal bump stops are on these.
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by Aries » Mon Nov 25, 2013 3:13 pm

dvanbramer88 wrote:Damn, that was one hell of a 180... And it only took 3 hours.

Your telling me. I heard nothing from OregTrailBlazin, Wheeler's or RadFlo, and I do check my spam folder. I would have to go back and check but the only communication I had with OregTrailBlazin was on here though PM's. I was beginning to worry because I'm leaving town tonight and won't be back until next week just for a couple days and then maybe away again until Christmas.

I doesn't matter I have them and I will say :awesome: "DAMN THEY LOOK GOOD!!".
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by DirtyBacon04 » Mon Nov 25, 2013 3:24 pm

Aries wrote:
dvanbramer88 wrote:Damn, that was one hell of a 180... And it only took 3 hours.

Your telling me. I heard nothing from OregTrailBlazin, Wheeler's or RadFlo, and I do check my spam folder. I would have to go back and check but the only communication I had with OregTrailBlazin was on here though PM's. I was beginning to worry because I'm leaving town tonight and won't be back until next week just for a couple days and then maybe away again until Christmas.


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by Aries » Mon Nov 25, 2013 5:31 pm

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by DirtyBacon04 » Fri Nov 29, 2013 6:12 am

Radflos installed... still need to adjust lift a bit more. Adjusting the threads is slow and exhausting... unless I'm doing it wrong :scratch:
The ride improvement is excellent, though!!
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by bartonmd » Fri Nov 29, 2013 9:09 am

DirtyBacon04 wrote:Radflos installed... still need to adjust lift a bit more. Adjusting the threads is slow and exhausting... unless I'm doing it wrong :scratch:
The ride improvement is excellent, though!!


If you're doing it with the vehicle jacked up and the weight off the front wheels, you're doing it right.

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by ErikSS » Fri Nov 29, 2013 9:15 am

I used a little WD40. It made a huge difference. I also modified my spanner wrench.
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by Aries » Fri Nov 29, 2013 9:20 am

DirtyBacon04 wrote: still need to adjust lift a bit more.

I read the max is 3 inches. Where would I measure to not over lift the front CV's (just from the ground to the fender?) and How would I know if I'm to high on the front?
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by ErikSS » Fri Nov 29, 2013 9:26 am

I plan to reduce mine to 3" of thread above the colar. Im at 3 1/4" right now. I actually spun the thread locking colar to the top and measured between the colars. I got the same measurement both ways though.
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by dvanbramer88 » Fri Nov 29, 2013 3:43 pm

Aries wrote:
DirtyBacon04 wrote: still need to adjust lift a bit more.

I read the max is 3 inches. Where would I measure to not over lift the front CV's (just from the ground to the fender?) and How would I know if I'm to high on the front?



The ground to the fender can be changed by tire size too. While you have the truck in the air adjusting the coils, just make sure you can spin the front wheels freely and have no binding in the CV joints while at full droop. That's the best surefire way to make sure you'll be good. The actual measurement is less important. You can use the fender to ground measurement to "level" the truck side-side and front to rear.
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by DirtyBacon04 » Fri Nov 29, 2013 10:31 pm

bartonmd wrote:
DirtyBacon04 wrote:Radflos installed... still need to adjust lift a bit more. Adjusting the threads is slow and exhausting... unless I'm doing it wrong :scratch:
The ride improvement is excellent, though!!


If you're doing it with the vehicle jacked up and the weight off the front wheels, you're doing it right.

Mike


Hell, I even took the wheels off. Must've busted my knuckles 30 times. With the exception of risking the spring "setting", is there any reason to not use spring compressors to get the weight off spring, then spin the collar by hand?
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by ErikSS » Fri Nov 29, 2013 10:38 pm

AJ and I thought about that. We had a spring compressor on hand too. We just couldn't see any chance of getting the compressor on those skinny springs to compress them.
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by TBYODA » Sat Nov 30, 2013 12:23 am

I installed my radflo's today with a buddy of mine and some tips from Cody (Opeth) thanks. I did not adjust them yet still need a few thing first. ;) Screw threads were at 1 3/8". I gained about 1 3/4" at the fender, not sure if this a good measure or not. The test ride and ride home were very nice and very responsive not as stiff as I was kinda fearing with stock tires. I am very happy.
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by mikekey » Sat Nov 30, 2013 1:41 pm

Is there any specific reason you guys are adjusting them once installed? Cause it's very easy to do in a vice. And where are you guys measuring?

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by ErikSS » Sat Nov 30, 2013 2:06 pm

[quote="mikekey"]Is there any specific reason you guys are adjusting them once installed? Cause it's very easy to do in a vice. And where are you guys measuring?

I did mine in the vehicle because nobody could give me a measurement as a starting point. I measured from he black cap at the top that says Radflo above the threads... down to the adjustment collar. While making small adjustments I had the locking collar all the way up, and measured between the two collars. Same difference. I'm currently at 3.25". It sits nice, maybe a little front high. I'm intending to come back to 3".
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by Trail X » Sat Nov 30, 2013 2:18 pm

Aries, you can do whatever the thread will allow. No matter what you do, you cannot over extend the CVs, because adjusting the collar is like adding inside the strut spacers. The biggest issue, and the thing you want to avoid is setting your spring preload higher than (or too close to) the weight of the vehicle. If you do that, no matter the shock, you'll be unhappy with the ride, because you will essentially be bypassing the spring and shock altogether. My suggestion is to make sure you have at least 1" of spring compression between preload length and loaded length. But thats really just an educated guess too. You need some amount of compression, but the amount of topping out you can handle or prefer will depend on your sensitivities.

Mike, I really wouldn't vice the spring. Vice the top shock mounting disk and turn the collar with the spanner. Penetrating lube works best, I wouldn't use wd40 nor a 3in1, but wd40 could prob work ok. WD40 just isn't designed as a lubricant.
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by ErikSS » Sat Nov 30, 2013 3:49 pm

Mike, I've been thinking about your vice idea. It seems like it would scratch the crap out of the spring. The coils are compressing closer to eachother as you turn the collar. Seems like it would also expand in diameter a touch. Have you compressed it a ways with that method? Curious if it works out ok or not...
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by mikekey » Sat Nov 30, 2013 4:59 pm

Yeah I didn't tighten down the vise, I just sat it in there to hold it with a hand and turn it. Turns easily without even using a lubricant.
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