Offroad Trailblazers and Envoys

My attempt at making a oil pan skid plate Completed sort of

Any special projects involving a decent amount of fab work (bumpers, sliders, roof racks, etc)

by TBYODA » Wed Jul 03, 2013 10:54 pm

So I finally got my butt over to the local surplus metal supply shop. :excited:
Mind you I don't have a welder or a cutting touch so I had to make due with a jigsaw and some steal cutting blades. :wallbash: Man I got to get metal cutting blade for my band saw. A buddy of mine has a mig welder that I will use to finish up around the oil plug and the blots, even thought I never have welded before but going to try anyway. :angry whip:

I am going for function than copy the plastic or MDB version. They are nice but beyond what I can do, so this will be vary simple shape. Beside the using a jigsaw took forever and that steel is hard.
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I scored this 1" tube from Home Depot for free, was in the junk bin. I said I would pay for it but the guy in the pluming section said to just take it he just was going to throw it out anyway. Going to cut it in 1/2" rings & welded them around the bolt holes to protect the bolts. :happy whip:
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The plate looks to be about 1/8" not real sure if this thickness is OK for a skid or not but I would not want to cut anything thicker with the Bosch jig saw blade I bought.
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Mocked up under the truck with cardboard. :woot:
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Transferred to steel.
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All cut out.
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Drilled, I still have to make bigger hole for the oil plug. Got to pick up this up 1 1/2 drill bit or maybe try this one since it is cheaper. Step Drill
Once drilled I am going build up around the hole a little and put cover over for protection, again simple. I will post up more picture when done.
Image
Last edited by TBYODA on Mon Apr 07, 2014 3:58 pm, edited 4 times in total.
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by NC_IslandRunner » Thu Jul 04, 2013 12:14 am

Nice work!

You may want to cut out a area around the plug and make a drop there like the plastic OEM skid and MDB's
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by TBYODA » Thu Jul 04, 2013 12:28 am

NC_IslandRunner wrote:Nice work!

You may want to cut out a area around the plug and make a drop there like the plastic OEM skid and MDB's


Thanks! I plan to, stated that at the bottom of post. :finger:
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by Beamer » Fri Jul 05, 2013 7:03 pm

Looks familiar. Just make sure you have enough clearance around the oil drain bolt. My first design would hit under acceleration, later made another "step" and no issue anylonger.

viewtopic.php?f=27&t=2282
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by TBYODA » Fri Jul 05, 2013 9:35 pm

Beamer wrote:Looks familiar. Just make sure you have enough clearance around the oil drain bolt. My first design would hit under acceleration, later made another "step" and no issue anylonger.

viewtopic.php?f=27&t=2282


Thanks I will, your post inspired me, along with MDB's. so far I am only in for around $20 so far. :)
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by TBYODA » Tue Jul 09, 2013 9:49 pm

So I picked up the step drill from HF and drilled out a larger hole under oil drain and test fitted the skid.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1373417150.732956.jpg


With the help of my son we started the TB and rev'ed the engine a few times to see if the oil plug would hit. I did not see or hear it hit but will drive it to work and see. Hole is a little off center might need to take of more steel on the one side. Did not really measure the holes or anything. :-)
Opinion please.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1373420838.314790.jpg
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by bartonmd » Tue Jul 09, 2013 9:54 pm

You won't see it hit until driving it, likely. Worst case is 4LO, back and forth between high load and engine braking.

The other issue is when there is something (a rock) pushing the skid up onto/around the aluminum post that holds the drain plug, and you shock load the drivetrain in 4LO. The hole needs to be at least 2", IMO.

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by TBYODA » Tue Jul 09, 2013 10:44 pm

Is the thickness of the plate alright?
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by bartonmd » Wed Jul 10, 2013 6:49 am

TBYODA wrote:Is the thickness of the plate alright?


The plate is 1/8". I make mine out of 7ga, which is just a hair less than 3/16" and it still gets a lot of its strength from the pyramid in the middle. It's certainly better than nothing, and if you do the larger hole and pyramid right, it'll be better and stronger than the stock plastic one.

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by TBYODA » Wed Jul 10, 2013 6:27 pm

bartonmd wrote:You won't see it hit until driving it, likely. Worst case is 4LO, back and forth between high load and engine braking.

The other issue is when there is something (a rock) pushing the skid up onto/around the aluminum post that holds the drain plug, and you shock load the drivetrain in 4LO. The hole needs to be at least 2", IMO.

Mike


Well took the plate off and it did hit a little, will be making hole bigger. :wallbash: :angry whip:

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1373495249.982732.jpg


ImageUploadedByTapatalk1373495267.650219.jpg
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by Trail X » Thu Jul 11, 2013 9:55 am

At least you found this now and not on a trail with your oil on the ground.
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by TBYODA » Thu Jul 11, 2013 3:03 pm

JamesDowning wrote:At least you found this now and not on a trail with your oil on the ground.


Yea I hear you, That is way I did it.

Would it be better to drill a big round hole then build up the pyramid or just cut out a lager square hole. My buddy that has the welder also has a hand grinder.
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by HARDTRAILZ » Mon Oct 28, 2013 12:49 pm

Ever bother to finish this?
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by TBYODA » Mon Oct 28, 2013 1:17 pm

HARDTRAILZ wrote:Ever bother to finish this?
No not yet. I just the other day I got my buddies welder over my house to be able to practice again. I think my first skid is a failure not sure if can be utilized. Looking from comments if can or not.

The mess around the hole was the start of the pyramid. LOL! After all that work a warping shit steel we though that maybe Mike does the pyramid first.
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Here is the flux welder that I have to work with.
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Last edited by TBYODA on Mon Oct 28, 2013 1:41 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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by dvanbramer88 » Mon Oct 28, 2013 1:27 pm

Mike does make the pyramid first, separate from the plate.
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by Trail X » Mon Oct 28, 2013 1:36 pm

That is a cold looking, poorly placed weld.
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by TBYODA » Mon Oct 28, 2013 1:52 pm

JamesDowning wrote:That is a cold looking, poorly placed weld.
I can't argue with you there. Had a lot of that going on. Had hard time seeing anything and was doing most of it wrong. Was trying to weld from say top to bottom along seam instead of side to side, also was not moving the bead a little. Also think I was moving to fast.
You should give credit for posting my sloppy welds ROFL!
Suggestion on good economical surface to weld on. I had the plate on old steel rims to keep it off the floor.
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by navigator » Mon Oct 28, 2013 2:05 pm

I don't have near the experience a lot of here do and I have a stick welder but I have a wheeled cart with a ply-wood top I weld a lot of my little stuff on. If you aren't dropping a lot of slag you shouldn't have any fire worries.
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by v7guy » Mon Oct 28, 2013 2:27 pm

I'd probably look at getting some thicker steel.

I'd also look at welding the pyramid seperate like mike does. The last few I've welded the pyramid to to base plate but i've also had to take a sledge and straighten them out, They're nowhere near as bad as what you show though.

As James mentioned, the weld looks cold and it looks like there's lots of starts and stops.

Focus on getting the metal clean. Bevel the edges. Listen to the welder, it'll tell you if you're too far away, to close, to cold etc. Your looking to hear a nice consistent sizzle. Watch some more videos on youtube. I would also recommend an auto darkening helmet. It'll help you easily see the arc. I like the Kobalt helmet from Lowes, the specs are pretty good and they have a grind function and have replaceable batteries. There are obviously better helmets. But I feel it's probably a good helmet for the occasional welder.
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by HARDTRAILZ » Mon Oct 28, 2013 2:31 pm

Harbor Freight has good cheap helmets actually. I know Mike said it would work for my needs and the auto-dark is good on them.
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