Offroad Trailblazers and Envoys

Differential/Axle Upgrade Help

G80, GU6, GT4, GT5, WTF? This section is for gearing and driveline stuff.

by jpetree85 » Mon Dec 17, 2012 10:53 pm

Ok, so after searching the forums and only finding bits and pieces that leave me with more questions and answers, I have decided to risk it and turn to the group for help. :wallbash:

I have read that if I upgrade my rear diff, I need to upgrade my front diff. I know I need a transplant from a v8 or EXT IOT do what I want to do. I am wanting to upgrade my rear to an ARB Air Locker running 4.10 gears, what do I need to do with the front?

Also, I am wanting to upgrade the rear axles, what should I do? Should I go Dana 44's?

Any help, even if it's a link to another post, would be appreciated. Thanks!
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by boog2006 » Mon Dec 17, 2012 10:57 pm

http://forums.offroadtb.com/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=282

Hardtrailz has the setup you're looking for I think.
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by djthumper » Tue Dec 18, 2012 2:22 am

If you change the gears in your rear differential you will need to change the gears up front to match. Kyle (Hardtrailz) did it with and rear differential from an SS. If you get one from the 5.3 or an EXT you can go up to the 8.6 without so many mods. There are several guys that have upgraded to the 8.6 rearend. You will also want to find a donor from an 06 or later to keep all of the ABS and other crap active or you will have to send your PCM in to clear the codes.

Dana 44s you are going to have to do a lot more mods.
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by fishsticks » Tue Dec 18, 2012 4:48 am

The 8.6 is essentially a bolt in swap as long as you get the proper year. 30 spline axles and the ability to get a real locker. The 8.6 is just as strong or stronger than a Dana 44. (Bigger carrier bearings)

The 9.5 is stronger than the 8.6, but requires driveshaft shortening. However, no one has broken an 8.6 in our platform yet, and many of us have beat them senseless on tires up to 35".

Get whichever is cheapest in your area.

As long as your rear gear ratio matches the front, you can leave the front alone for now.
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by HARDTRAILZ » Tue Dec 18, 2012 9:34 am

Responded to your PM.
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by jpetree85 » Tue Dec 18, 2012 11:23 am

Thank you those who have posted so far. It is really helping.

One more question...what size is our front diff in inches...narrowing down my options...
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by HARDTRAILZ » Tue Dec 18, 2012 11:27 am

There is one locker option as I told you. There is not another diff you can substitute. Your options are really limited.
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by v7guy » Tue Dec 18, 2012 4:08 pm

A few members have done the lockright, more have opted to not do it to help preserve the front end. You're stuck with the front diff you got unless you want to fab up something crazy and that means 26/27 splines.

I think the 8.6 is commonly compared to the Dana 44s and has been found to be a little stronger. It's a direct swap. The SS rear seems to be most commonly compared to the Dana 60s and needs the rear kicked back a couple inches or the driveshaft shortened.
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by HARDTRAILZ » Tue Dec 18, 2012 4:38 pm

v7guy wrote:A few members have done the lockright, more have opted to not do it to help preserve the front end. You're stuck with the front diff you got unless you want to fab up something crazy and that means 26/27 splines.

I think the 8.6 is commonly compared to the Dana 44s and has been found to be a little stronger. It's a direct swap. The SS rear seems to be most commonly compared to the Dana 60s and needs the rear kicked back a couple inches or the driveshaft shortened.


Only two did the front locker and only Fish has ever posted about it or responded to any ?s about it.

The SS rear with 1/2 inch extended rear control arms still required driveshaft shortening. Anymore extention of rear control arms and you end up having issues with the rear fenderwell clearance. W
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by Conner299 » Tue Dec 18, 2012 5:19 pm

So, would you still have to do rear control arm and driveshaft modification, if both the rearend and driveshaft from an SS were used?
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by HARDTRAILZ » Tue Dec 18, 2012 5:26 pm

The rear control arms are helpful if you go over 33 inch tires.

I do not believe anyone has ever tried an SS driveshaft to know that answer. I might just look around and see if I can find one. Not sure if they are steel or aluminum, but I do know that my steel driveshaft was a different length than another I6 SWB with an aluminum driveshaft, because I had them both side by side. The measruements should be posted on here somewhere.
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by bartonmd » Tue Dec 18, 2012 5:30 pm

The SS and 5.3L have different drive shaft lengths than the I6. This is because the front of the engines have to be in the same place for the fan placement, and the I6 is longer than the V8s. This causes the V8 driveshafts to be longer by something like 4" than the I6 drive shafts.

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by HARDTRAILZ » Tue Dec 18, 2012 5:42 pm

But the SS shaft may be better for shortening then as it will have the ears to avoid the oddball u-joint.
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by v7guy » Tue Dec 18, 2012 9:19 pm

HARDTRAILZ wrote:
v7guy wrote:A few members have done the lockright, more have opted to not do it to help preserve the front end. You're stuck with the front diff you got unless you want to fab up something crazy and that means 26/27 splines.

I think the 8.6 is commonly compared to the Dana 44s and has been found to be a little stronger. It's a direct swap. The SS rear seems to be most commonly compared to the Dana 60s and needs the rear kicked back a couple inches or the driveshaft shortened.


Only two did the front locker and only Fish has ever posted about it or responded to any ?s about it.

The SS rear with 1/2 inch extended rear control arms still required driveshaft shortening. Anymore extention of rear control arms and you end up having issues with the rear fenderwell clearance. W




Don't need no rear fenderwells, Cut em :mrgreen:
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