Offroad Trailblazers and Envoys

4Crawlin Build Thread

G80, GU6, GT4, GT5, WTF? This section is for gearing and driveline stuff.

by chevycrew » Wed Apr 25, 2012 3:38 pm

I'm still about a 1/2 hour south of ogden. But that's sound good, I'm sure we could hit some trails.
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by hobbstisdaman » Wed Apr 25, 2012 4:32 pm

Just take me somewhere a 4" sus, 3" body on 33"s can go. Not just monster trucks such as yourself
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by chevycrew » Wed Apr 25, 2012 5:28 pm

Most of the trails around here are good for 33s.
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by Nakashige » Sat Apr 28, 2012 12:14 am

Do you still have any Idiot lights on?
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by chevycrew » Sat Apr 28, 2012 1:31 am

Just the Air Bag for a broken clock spring. Ripped the ABS and Brake LEDs off the cluster, then rewired in a new brake warning light.
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by Nakashige » Sat Apr 28, 2012 10:52 pm

2 Questions was going to run 35s on the SAS but cant get treadwrights now thinking 37s. Will i have enough clearance how much trimming did you do
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by chevycrew » Sun Apr 29, 2012 2:27 am

I rub on the firewall, and core support. My axles are 5" forward, and 5" back. I recenty trimmed in front of the front tire, but didn't need to trim behind the front tire, or at the rear tires. My rear chopping is documented.

First trip out I was running 42s, now 40s. I don't think 37s on mine would touch anywhere.
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by Nakashige » Sun Apr 29, 2012 8:52 pm

Ok I am looking at 35s for dd and light wheeling and 37s on h1 8 lug for wheeling
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by chevycrew » Mon Apr 30, 2012 12:29 am

You should be fine even without the body lift.
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by chevycrew » Thu May 03, 2012 7:01 am

Trying to decide what to do for wheels and tires. Right now I'm on 40" mtrs on aluminum wheels. I have 39.5x13.50x20 bias ply iroks in storage (brand new). There is a chance I could get a set of nittos if I go on Ultimate Adventure.

So, the choice is in beadlocks... Steel? Aluminum? 17"? 20"? Cost wise I can get 17" wheels to my door from diybeadlocks.com for $900, or Allied Racing Rock 8 Black steel wheels for $980, or KMC Enduro aluminum 17" wheels for $1100 then the price shoots up from there. I really havent even looked at 20's yet.

Im leaning towards the cheap route (which allows me to pick my style of rings) and go with diybeadlocks.com.

I can also save some money, buy the kit and build my own. But Im short on time and they are a pretty big pain in the ass just to save $250. (Wheels are about $375 from summitracing.com, then the beadlock kit is around $275)


So, opinions?
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by HARDTRAILZ » Thu May 03, 2012 7:13 am

Hear lots of good about allied. Minimal cost difference and no work.
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by Trail X » Thu May 03, 2012 9:44 am

Have you considered staun beadlocks? Might save you a bit of money, plus it secures both inside and outside beads.
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by fishsticks » Thu May 03, 2012 12:28 pm

Have you seen the thread on Pirate about bending/welding round stock to use as an inside beadlock?

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by chevycrew » Thu May 03, 2012 4:10 pm

Stauns are good for rigs that keep a constant tire pressure. You have to deflate the staun to air down, and then reinflate the staun raising tire pressure. Its an option, but a pain to air up and down on a daily basis.

I have seen the round bar thread, I have a buddy that went that route, and it doesn't seem to help.
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by fishsticks » Thu May 03, 2012 4:39 pm

One of our guys tried it and did some "testing". Have a look.

http://www.pnw4x4s.com/forum/index.php?topic=5081.0

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by chevycrew » Thu May 03, 2012 6:31 pm

He is running single beadlocks, and tried the round bar on the inner bead. He still keeps losing the bead, heavy truck and low pressure... For me, I also want something that will prevent me from packing rock, sticks, and dirt between the tire and the rim (outside). I still might try the round bar on the inner bead if I build a set.

I'm also 5400 lbs right now, and as outfitted for UA I'm guessing I will be pushing 6k!
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by Trail X » Fri May 04, 2012 9:41 am

chevycrew wrote:Stauns are good for rigs that keep a constant tire pressure. You have to deflate the staun to air down, and then reinflate the staun raising tire pressure. Its an option, but a pain to air up and down on a daily basis.

Ew, I did not know that. That is a serious design flaw.
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by chevycrew » Fri May 04, 2012 6:05 pm

Ill have to look into that more, I have heard of guys putting in a channel? To allow you to air up or down with the staun inflated. They may have designed on in since I last looked too...


On another note, I ordered yukon 35 spline chromoly axle shafts for the front today. Should be a nice upgrade.
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by chevycrew » Fri May 11, 2012 7:43 am

Ok I was wrong, but I remember why.

Stauns have a built in air channel that allows the tire to be inflated, or deflated. without airing down the staun, but, if the tire slips on the wheel, or the staun moves the smallest amount upon install, then the channel doesnt match up with the valve stem.

They are a great product, but due to install hassles, and still needing a rock ring on the wheel to protect it from being bent. I am still leaning towards a true beadlock.

I am currently working with B.A.D. wheels, to run their new DOT legal beadlock on ultimate adventure.

http://blogs.off-roadweb.com/6769556/ed ... index.html
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by HARDTRAILZ » Fri May 11, 2012 8:25 am

Saw them. Look sweet. Hopefully you can test em out!
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