Skindiggers wrote:Did you check that link ?
They are not saying only that are stronger ( which i understand that you don't need them to be ) but they say that normal cv joints have about 15-20 degree angle and these ones can work with 40 degree angle which will allow us to lift the front with an additional spacer on top of the strut without having problems with the cv joint .
When i first lifted my truck with a 2.5" spacer on top of the strut , i actually lifted it about 3.75" and i was having problems with the cv joints , using this axles will allow us to have maybe 4" lift without having any cv joint binding problems !
And do you think that a Dana44 plus a custom drive shaft plus all the ours of work for this transformation will be cheaper than some axles like this ( If they would be available for our platform !! )?
I was just trying to say that in my opinion this would be the future mod for our platform instead of the SAS !
I've seen the link before. I'm aware they allow for some crazy angles.
The point I was making is even with those angles, you still have other unaddressed weak points in the IFS. Buying a set of high angle CVs and fixing all of the other problems in the front will cost more than even a D60.
Say you buy a set of these and get them to work on a TB. You lift the front end 6" (suspension only) and put 35-37" tires on. You install a locker because "Hey, why not? I'm going through all the rest of the trouble to do this."
The very next thing you will start breaking is tie rod ends. I've broken both sides on a single wheeling trip before. You'll have a much worse angle than I do.
Solution: Upgrade to 3/4ton TREs... but the angle is still severe, so you get the performance TREs from Bulletproof Steering ($400). Great. Now you have beefy TREs. Let's hope that the next week link in your steering isn't the rack.
I have the weakest I6 (270hp), 4.56 gears and 35s. I have broken my splined disconnect
FOUR times. The last time I blew up an AWD sleeve (the same sleeve the SS guys use) and stripped the splines off of my intermediate shaft. How do you fix that?
Solution: You contact Bobby Long and convince him to make a chromoly intermediate shaft with splines for the passenger side CV axle as a one-piece unit. You have him cryo treat it just for good measure. You figure out how to make it work with your existing splined disconnect housing. You've just spent $1000.
Now that you've eliminated all the other weak points... you go out and have some fun. Unfortunately, because there are no more weak links to act like a mechanical fuse, you peel a bunch of teeth off of your ring gear, or walk the pinion and crack the aluminum housing.
Now what?
This is assuming you don't overstress and separate a balljoint. There's isn't much room left on the uppers even with flipped UCAs.
To solve half of these problems you need to find a way to relocate the UCA/LCA mounting points, drop the front diff out of the oil pan, and lower the steering rack. That alone will cost you more than a SAS. Trust me, I've looked.
Also, doing this alleviates the need for high angle CV axles.
11 Silverado LTZ - 6.2L/6l80, 2/3 drop, self tuned
85 Hilux - 3RZ, dual cases, caged, 40s, chromo everything
02 TrailBlazer LTZ - 35s, lockers, balls - Gone but not forgotten -
Build
its not easy.
