Front Axle 4WD Disconnect

[intimadatorsquizz]

.. thanks again Roadie..

Glad to help. I KNOW my disconnect is going to break someday if I'm not always careful with engagement, and I need you guys to be ready with the replacement parts. Control arms, too.

i sent the info for the control arms to a different product manager already.so we'll see where that goes.

[Trail X]

I've got the front end apart, but I can't figure out how to get the inner CV spines out of the disconnect.

You can't pull on the CV, as it's just a plunge joint... I've tried prying on it, but don't want to damage the seal.

[Philberto]

Modified upper control arms by Dorman? Sweeeeet! If that is indeed correct anyways.

[bgwolfpack]

I've got the front end apart, but I can't figure out how to get the inner CV spines out of the disconnect.

You can't pull on the CV, as it's just a plunge joint... I've tried prying on it, but don't want to damage the seal.

I'm not clear as to what your asking. Are you trying to remove the Intermediate shafts? I read that to remove them you must use a slide hammer to remove the seals first.

[Trail X]

No, where the CV shaft connects into the disconnect... I can't overcome the springclip that holds the inner splines into the disconnect housing.

[The Roadie]

Modified upper control arms by Dorman? Sweeeeet! If that is indeed correct anyways.

Dorman ALREADY makes replacement upper control arms and LCA inner brackets that contain the major bushings. I haven't asked if they would change the angle for us lifted folks. Might be an issue of liability for a company that otherwise doesn't do customs. What I'm hoping to get is aftermarket lower control arms with a superior bushing for the strut mount. So far, only OEM parts for that item.

No, where the CV shaft connects into the disconnect... I can't overcome the springclip that holds the inner splines into the disconnect housing.

Been discussed extensively on the OS. Get a long drift punch, 24" 1/2" socket extension, or a piece of rebar. Whack at a shallow angle on the back of the tripot housing. Needs a 3 pound sledge at least, IME.

[Philberto]

What's wrong with the existing bushing? anything I should watch out for?

[The Roadie]

It's rubber. Crappy OEM rubber. Deteriorates with aggressive use. In a few thousand offroad miles you might see a problem.

[Trail X]

Figured out my issue, it is indeed a severely worn inner CV drive shaft bearing.

I never did get the inner CV shaft out of the disconnect. I had a 24" pipe that I was banging on. I believe the issue was because every hit just made the CV rattle around in the bearing, not getting anywhere with the spring clip.

I was otherwise able to get everything else apart though. So I decided to begin troubleshooting with what I had.

I activated 4WD and began man-handling the tripod housing. After rotating it a bit and jiggling it a lot, the disconnect syncro snapped into place.

So as a temporary fix, I decided to just unplug the actuator so the front disconnect would be stuck together. It gives me a service 4WD light, but no biggie for a temporary "fix".

At least I know the root cause of the failure, and I have a temporary solution.

(I beleive the parts that went bad are #2 below.)

[The Roadie]

Awwww, sorry to hear that. When the TCCM gives up on the actuators, it usually gives up responding to other commands like 4HI and especially 4LO. You might need to plug the actuator back in and reset the TCCM with the fuse trick to get it into or out of LO range if you need it. Another good reason we should have a TCCM replacement box that isn't so involved in its own interlocks.

You could have just called me also instead of posting ... the offer is open to anybody in the middle of a project.

[Trail X]

I did verify that 4HI and 4LO works. I guess if the TCCM cannot get hi-low signals from the actuator, it assumes it's working, and goes about the normal TC functions, but turns on the service light to let you know there's an issue.

The switch now remains blinking in all positions except 2HI, and always gives a solid in 2HI no matter the switch position.



I'll call you next time. All I had was your old work number. I have your cell now.

On another note, it should be possible to create 2LO by disconnecting the front plug while in 2HI, then switching into LO... although the process is kinda convoluted... and produces a service 4wd light. Boo.

[foosh]

So how are the dorman products coming along... I know I have some big issues down below, so when i do start to go at rebuilding it, I want to do it right with new better parts. Sometimes I think it would just be a better Idea to Swap to a Solid axle.... I CAN DREAM!!!

[The Roadie]

Dorman's still trying to get a good collection of broken parts for analysis. So far no products are even close.

[irishboy02]

SAS!

[Excell]

Let's all go to our nearest mall and stop every soccer mom with a GMT-360 "Excuse me, does your 4WD work? No? Oh, no reason, have fun shopping - thanks for the information." *wrench* *wrench* *wrench*

[intimadatorsquizz]

We're working on the fork as of now, but like Roadie said still trying to get more defective pieces in to look at. I am in contact with 2 people from the OS that will be sending me there bad parts.

[The Roadie]

*wrench* *wrench* *wrench*

hehe. Then the OS would be filled with complaints about missing front axle disconnects, like hub caps. And the offroadtb ninja team would be blamed, as usual.

[MrSmithsTB]

I'll tear all the neighborhood ones up under the cloak of night, and send the parts in the morning. Seeing a slight amount of leakage in that area, and I want to make sure there are quality parts on deck when I need them.

[foosh]

Haha yes we are the ninja team Roadie... just don't tell the members on the OS.

[05ls_soldier]

Well, It seems I am having the same issue! Just did some tests 2 hours ago, put it in 4HI, heard all the good noises, got under it, spun drivers side tire, and just get a clicking noise from the passenger. Pulled the actuator off, plunger works fine. Used a big punch to push in on fork, wiggled passenger back and forth, then got it to lock in for a 1/4 turn. After that it stopped turning, and started clicking again ! So now I have this issue, and my transmission to fix before I can lift her! UGH Hopefully I can find the parts down here!