Offroad Trailblazers and Envoys

Compressor -- What do have and what do think of it?

Dumping ground for offroad Trailblazer or Envoy general discussion.

by Zero » Wed May 26, 2010 1:44 pm

If someone did that install and worried about heat, id say just install a small computer fan in there or cut a hole in the plastic cover for it to suck in the fresh air......lol or you could always get a liquid cooled pc heatsink hahahha
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by KE7WOX » Wed May 26, 2010 3:01 pm

Saxis wrote:Looks like my stock compressor is kind of above the spare tire location on the driver's side. I assumed that was the compressor at least... Looked like it was pretty well protected by sheet metal. I'm hoping I can get a ViAir compressor in that location. Probably put the tank in the spare tire location.


That's probably a small compessor, I mean you don't need much to inflate the airbags.
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by Trail X » Wed May 26, 2010 4:32 pm

Saxis wrote:Looks like my stock compressor is kind of above the spare tire location on the driver's side. I assumed that was the compressor at least... Looked like it was pretty well protected by sheet metal. I'm hoping I can get a ViAir compressor in that location. Probably put the tank in the spare tire location.




Seems it was on different sides depending on model year. Mine's got the big fuel emissions box mounted over-where-the-spare-used-to-sit on the driver side.

I had thought about mounting my compressor or an air tank in the over-where-the-spare-used-to-sit area, but there just doesn't seem to be enough room... I may end up removing some of the cross braces in order to fit something. Although I really like the idea of mounting the compressor inside... it will keep your compressor cleaner, plus the air will be cleaner with no risk of ingesting water.
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by Saxis » Wed May 26, 2010 6:04 pm

KE7WOX wrote:That's probably a small compessor, I mean you don't need much to inflate the airbags.



Yeah it's pretty small. I didn't get any measurements but the diagram James posted looks correct. I took a look at that earlier today also, just to make sure I was looking in the right place.

You can see the metal plate which conceals the compressor up under the body nicely. What I really need to do is get measurements of the old compressor and ViAir compressor to see what can be done. It's just handy to have power down there already in that location, even if there's some kind of wiring harness that I have to bastardize. Also, I can run the airlines right back through the stock locations. I want my dash gauge and switch inside the back compartment though. If I need to add more air, it'll be while loading the truck or hitching a trailer. Still lots of research to do, but when I get my lift and springs on coming up June 5th, I'll be able to take out the stock system to look over it.
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by HARDTRAILZ » Thu May 27, 2010 8:42 am

I try to avoid messing with the rear fuse block, I am thinking it would be far easier to tie in there for power than running wires off the battery. If mounting the MV-50 in the rear compartment area or underneath the rear, is there a way to tap into the rear block or should i buy some wire and run it back?

I believe some of you have things ran off the rear, but will the 30 amp draw be too much?
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by bartonmd » Thu May 27, 2010 9:18 am

HARDTRAILZ wrote:I try to avoid messing with the rear fuse block, I am thinking it would be far easier to tie in there for power than running wires off the battery. If mounting the MV-50 in the rear compartment area or underneath the rear, is there a way to tap into the rear block or should i buy some wire and run it back?

I believe some of you have things ran off the rear, but will the 30 amp draw be too much?


Could tap into the trailer power connection going to the trailer plug...

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by HARDTRAILZ » Thu May 27, 2010 9:32 am

bartonmd wrote:
HARDTRAILZ wrote:I try to avoid messing with the rear fuse block, I am thinking it would be far easier to tie in there for power than running wires off the battery. If mounting the MV-50 in the rear compartment area or underneath the rear, is there a way to tap into the rear block or should i buy some wire and run it back?

I believe some of you have things ran off the rear, but will the 30 amp draw be too much?


Could tap into the trailer power connection going to the trailer plug...

Mike


Brilliant!
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by Trail X » Thu May 27, 2010 9:38 am

The rear fuse block has a nice 12V pole exposed on the interior side for your convenience. I run my roof lights off that pole... that draws 20A. I also have my rear battery running through that which would initially charge at 50A. I believe Bill did a study on it, and the rear block barely pulls 40A or so MAX, so there was some left-over current before becoming close to the megafuse limit.
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by bartonmd » Thu May 27, 2010 9:41 am

That also wouldn't require cutting a hole in the floor, and I believe it's on the same Megafuse circuit as the trailer connector, so it's just a difference on where you get the power that comes from the same place...

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by The Roadie » Thu May 27, 2010 10:30 am

The rear power stud is indeed fed by the megafuse, and I see peak fridge battery recharge currents of around 50A, and I've used my AC inverter drawing about 75A off of it. The megafuse is oversized to handle goofball owners raising all FOUR windows at once and stalling the motors at the top.

The trailer constant 12V wire is not fed by the megafuse, but rather by a 30A large fuse on the edge of the fuse block - called a "J-case" fuse. There are 30A mini fuses, but the J-case was designed to handle higher inrush currents such as a trailer might have with a discharged battery, and a lower voltage drop across it, to deliver power to the trailer with higher efficiency. They also cost more.

Image

Emergency workaround tutorial: Coincidentally, the trailer feed threaded stud is right next to the megafuse rear panel feed stud, so it you lose your megafuse and aren't carrying your spare (you ALL have spares of EACH fuse in the vehicle, RIGHT?), you can simply jump the megafuse stud to the trailer stud and get your interior lights, etc. back. Just don't raise more than one window at a time or you'll blow your trailer J-case fuse.

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by HARDTRAILZ » Thu May 27, 2010 11:47 am

Thanks. My idea of mounting the compressor and my lil 400 watt invertor should work much easier.

Megafuse??? Can a spare be picked up at autozone or somplace similar? I carry most of the other fuses, but that did remind me I need to pick up some replacements for the ones we used trying to figure out an issue oin my buddy's chopper.
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by Trail X » Thu May 27, 2010 12:30 pm

I picked up a 150A megafuse at advance. I'm sure other places stock them too.
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by KE7WOX » Thu May 27, 2010 4:02 pm

I saw one at AutoZone yesterday, but it was a different amperage, like 100A or so.

Also, what's the name of those metallic slightly larger things? are they circuit breakers or special fuses?
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by Gordinho80 » Thu May 27, 2010 5:02 pm

Careful with the megafuse "type" fuses at places that sell electronics... I was given a 150amp megafuse that at first glance, looked like it would fit our vehicles. When I actually held it up to the posts, it was too long. Make sure it is in fact the same size as ours BEFORE you need it.
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