BOOM! Goes my transmission.....

[larryk]

Larry, why did you pull the exhaust? I have been able to remove/replace without having the exhaust out.

The downpipe on the 4.2 is literally right next to the trans, and takes up a bunch of space. I never really considered NOT dropping it to make room for the removal/install. Besides, the Helms manual has this as the first step in removing trans

I mean, if it has been done without dropping the pipe, Im not one to argue....but it really opened up a lot of space on the right side of the trans....

[Regulator1175]

Larry, why did you pull the exhaust? I have been able to remove/replace without having the exhaust out.

The downpipe on the 4.2 is literally right next to the trans, and takes up a bunch of space. I never really considered NOT dropping it to make room for the removal/install. Besides, the Helms manual has this as the first step in removing trans

I mean, if it has been done without fropping the pipe, Im not one to argue....but it really opened up a lot of space on the right side of the trans....

Yup, I have done 6 or 7 now without removing the exhaust. I identified the same problems with the exhaust the first time that you had, and decided not to risk removing it. Glad to hear that all went well for you. Now that you have a spare, buy a basic rebuild kit from ebay and dig into it.

[Norcrosski]

I also have never dropped the exhaust on 6 swaps know I have it down to 4 hrs r&r on the ground no lift

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[larryk]

I also have never dropped the exhaust on 6 swaps know I have it down to 4 hrs r&r on the ground no lift

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Yeah, I'd say total time R&R on this, including exhaust, was maybe 4-4.5 hours. I spent more time cleaning parts, painting, and replacing bushings and seals.....lol

So, let me ask....WHY so many swaps? Are you in the business, or just a common failure point?

[Regulator1175]

As for me, I have rebuilt mine a couple of times due to some poor decisions as noted above. I have also done a few transmissions for friends.

[v7guy]

Matt, there any specific mods you'd encourage and even mods you'd avoid?

[larryk]

Here are mods I have found to be helpful for the 4L60E. Some may not be needed, but I try to go for strength and overkill.....

Corvette or Sonnax 2/4 servo, with Sonnax o-ringed apply pin; beast (or Sonnax) sun shell; 5 pinion GM planetaries (avoid the aftermarket chinese knockoffs!); I use borg warner clutches/bands.... Avoid the temptation to go to an extra plate in the 3-4 clutch pack, it ends up warping the steels, and burning it out prematurely; kolene steels in all clutches; new input drum anytime the band is changed; Transgo shiftkit/seperator plate; GM deep pan with factory drain; updated valve body with TC valve sleeve replaced; .500 boost valve; tcc regulator valve in the pump....and now that I have seen it.....Id suggest a billet 13 vane pump hub too.

Rebuilding a trans really isnt that tough, you just need to have a CLEAN area to work in, take your time, and make sure you prelube/soak all parts/clutches when you install them. Do not want a dry start..... Replace EVERY bushing/seal when you are in there and do not force anything.

[Jrgunn5150]

The mod that I'd avoid, even though I see it mentioned often is the red alto clutches. They are smooth faced rather than waffled like OE, also, in this application, they are thinner, in order to increase clutch count in the same space.

[TheHungriGerman]

The same thing happened to me and I was told by my transmission shop was the shift solenoids. Filter screen clogged up because my 34 clutch pack was wearing out.

[v7guy]

I've been told over and over in the last few months to go with the BW 3/4 clutches and basically nothing else. Bout all I got to add.

[Jrgunn5150]

I've been told over and over in the last few months to go with the BW 3/4 clutches and basically nothing else. Bout all I got to add.

Yeah, the Alto's are smooth faced and thinner than stock.