Offroad Trailblazers and Envoys

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Trailblazer and Envoy related, but not off-road related...

by Rickalicka18 » Wed Mar 02, 2016 2:20 pm

What's our current stall In our torque converters for our 4.2l
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by HARDTRAILZ » Wed Mar 02, 2016 2:28 pm

google says 2600
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by Rickalicka18 » Wed Mar 02, 2016 2:38 pm

Wouldn't it make more sense to have an ss torque converter since it stall is at 3600rpm? Which is were we make peak torque in a 4.2l... Or is a higher stall the reason for the heating up?
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by HARDTRAILZ » Wed Mar 02, 2016 2:45 pm

The SS guys actually do not have a 3600. They switch to the I-6 to raise the rpm....

Higher stall makes heat. Ask regulator about going to a 3000ish....
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by Rickalicka18 » Wed Mar 02, 2016 2:49 pm

I see, so a torque converter with a stall of say 1600 rpm would translate to less heat, but would it make a difference in accelerating? Especially with bigger tires.
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by HARDTRAILZ » Wed Mar 02, 2016 2:57 pm

Yes.
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by Rickalicka18 » Wed Mar 02, 2016 3:06 pm

Well that sucks.
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by HARDTRAILZ » Wed Mar 02, 2016 3:12 pm

Its a balance. I dont have any issue with heat or stall since i did the tune and trans cooler. If I rebuild the trans ever i will stay stock I do believe.
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by v7guy » Wed Mar 02, 2016 3:41 pm

Yeah, it may bog down a bit if you go too low, just depends on what you wanna play with. The less "slip" the torque converter has the less it's going to heat up the trans though. As Kyle said it's a balance.
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by Rickalicka18 » Wed Mar 02, 2016 4:55 pm

Yeah I wouldn't wanna mess with it either... Probably wouldn't effect the torque that much since it looks like we have a relatively flat torque curve... But acceleration would probably be noticeably slower... Maybe something with a stall of 2000-2500 would work fine... But the difference in heat might not be worth it.. Anyways, thanks for the info! Learn something new everyday.
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by Jrgunn5150 » Wed Mar 02, 2016 7:15 pm

Cable810 wrote:
Jrgunn5150 wrote:Do you guy's with the 4.2 really have trans temp issues so badly? Mine sat at 188 for so long, I actually hooked a gauge into the pan to make sure, it never moves lol.


Umm lets see Hmm I'm pushing 37s lol


Thanks guys.


I understand that, and I also understand the 4.2's have a higher stall, thusly, basically, 4.2's ARE the issue, since everyone seems to shy away from swapping in a lower converter and towards limiting tire size or swapping gear's.

My only point, is every idiot with a Z71, 3" body lift, torsion bars cranked, and a 2" block run's 35's on 3.42 gear's just peachy. I repeatedly see on this forum people state that anything over a 265/75 is going to burn up a trans on stock gearing in no time flat. The only reason I can think of is the higher stall of the converter in a 4.2 vs anything else a 4L60E comes behind.
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by TBYODA » Wed Mar 02, 2016 9:33 pm

Jrgunn5150 wrote:
Cable810 wrote:
Jrgunn5150 wrote:Do you guy's with the 4.2 really have trans temp issues so badly? Mine sat at 188 for so long, I actually hooked a gauge into the pan to make sure, it never moves lol.


Umm lets see Hmm I'm pushing 37s lol


Thanks guys.


I understand that, and I also understand the 4.2's have a higher stall, thusly, basically, 4.2's ARE the issue, since everyone seems to shy away from swapping in a lower converter and towards limiting tire size or swapping gear's.

My only point, is every idiot with a Z71, 3" body lift, torsion bars cranked, and a 2" block run's 35's on 3.42 gear's just peachy. I repeatedly see on this forum people state that anything over a 265/75 is going to burn up a trans on stock gearing in no time flat. The only reason I can think of is the higher stall of the converter in a 4.2 vs anything else a 4L60E comes behind.


I maybe missing something in my understanding but if you we're to swap in a lower stall converter to keep the heat down with 35". I would think your gonna give up a bunch of torque with 3.42, which on the trail you need all you can get. I will stick with my plan of taller gears and I sure those with the Z71's you talk about are pavement princesses and don't tow shit but I could be wrong.
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by Jrgunn5150 » Wed Mar 02, 2016 9:49 pm

TBYODA wrote:
I maybe missing something in my understanding but if you we're to swap in a lower stall converter to keep the heat down with 35". I would think your gonna give up a bunch of torque with 3.42, which on the trail you need all you can get. I will stick with my plan of taller gears and I sure those with the Z71's you talk about are pavement princesses and don't tow shit but I could be wrong.


A lower stall speed would help on the trail though, by applying more power at a lower RPM.

I'm not advocating using 3.42's and 35's, for anything. I'm merely pointing out that people do, successfully, quite often.

If a 4-600 rpm increase in stall speed is enough to cause the 4.2 trucks to bite it with a tire over 31's, then I would definitely swap in a lower speed converter when rebuilding. Obviously swapping to a lower gear ratio is desirable as well. Personally, anything less than 4.56's, is wasting time at a tire size of 33-35", but to each their own.

Like I said before, I monitored my trans temps until I was convinced Torque wasn't working, hooked up a Mech gauge, got the same results. My temps never went over 190, towing, driving, offroading. I have 3.42's and 32" tires. So if the 4.2 guy's are seeing huge swing's in temperature, and the converter is the only difference, then obviously that 4-600 rpm difference between the 5.3 and 4.2 converter's is actually pretty significant.
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by HARDTRAILZ » Thu Mar 03, 2016 9:24 am

Having owned and driven several undergeared lifted vehicles... You dont realize what you are giving up until you have something built properly. Ignorance is bliss for most lifted drivers.
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by Aries » Thu Mar 03, 2016 2:00 pm

Agreed with someone who commented on how "Awesome" my Trailblazer looks
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by Cable810 » Mon Mar 07, 2016 1:31 pm

Had a mere setback yesterday. Was putting miles on the front end in 4x4. Stopped at Wal-Mart that was 45 miles from my house got done there and started to head home. I kept hearing this clunk/vibration when I'd hit a bump. Then all of a sudden it got real bad. Pulled over checked everything then grabbed the hoop and it had broke at one of the welds. Got it fixed around 2am

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by Jrgunn5150 » Mon Mar 07, 2016 6:59 pm

Ouch, did you have it plated prior to that?
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by Anthony Hernandez » Mon Mar 07, 2016 7:54 pm

Is that tube doing anything other than holding the shock in place? I would think brackets on the ends of tube that are "L" shape or gussets would be welded around it to give strength. A backing plate and a few plug welds wouldn't hurt either.
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by v7guy » Tue Mar 08, 2016 1:01 am

I assume it's a result of welding a small tube to the side of the frame and the whole shock mount acting like a big lever arm flexing the thin metal of the frame over and over at the weld until it broke the metal that was probably made more brittle by the HAZ of the weld.

Just an example of why you should plate the frame.

Hopefully there's now rather generous reinforcement plates on both sides to remedy it. Might wanna taco gusset it if there's room... I've seen plenty of setups with out em though.
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by HARDTRAILZ » Tue Mar 08, 2016 9:37 am

Ouchey. Glad it did not hurt your or truck.
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