What did you do to your GMT today?

[jdmser]

Replaced both rear hvac actuators. Boys were pumped.

[KingBird]

Chasing down an issue. Since the engine swap ('06 into '02), I've had a slight stumble at low throttle input. Now, only once the engine is warmed up, it will stall at idle. The TB is clean, and I've even switched it out with the old TB just to be sure. Spark plugs are good, coil packs are correct and fine, no CEL but I DO have a code for O2 sensor bank one sensor 2, which is reasonable since I have a gutted cat.

Cam actuator solenoid has been changed with known good.

Damn thing is starting to piss me off, it ONLY does it when hot and only at low /no throttle (less than 20% throttle input according to Torque app on my phone). Sunday, it started stalling at stop signs/intersections.

Do any of you think that getting the computer reprogrammed would solve it? I only ask because it's progressively gotten worse. I don't want to spend $300+ and still have the issue afterward...

[HARDTRAILZ]

Why would it be that much to reprogram the computer?

[KingBird]

Cheapest I've found so far is $425.

I may just have to do PCM4LESS.

[HARDTRAILZ]

Yeah...I am not sure why you would even consider a different computer program for triple the PCMforless price.

[KingBird]

I'm impatient.

[Chris68chevy]

I'm impatient.

Then why not look into limeswap as well. I've heard good things about his tunes as well, plus from what I've seen he gets the tune done and back to you reasonably quick.

[KingBird]

I decided on the core program with PCMof NC.

I'm new to the computer stuff. I would almost think that it was a fuel pump or pressure problem except it will literally fire up immediately after dying if you hit the switch. It's gotta be the tune right? That's the only thing left.

[KingBird]

Well, crap, I think I've got it figured out. I had to cap a fuel line when I replaced the engine since my vehicle has three fuel lines and the new engine was only fed by two.

As it turns out, the fuel pump for the '02 year model is meant to be used with a pressure regulator. Newer models have a different fuel pump because they don't use a regulator. So I'm having these issues because the fuel system is over pressurized. Cool, now I know, I'll switch out the fuel rails and all should be well. Plus, I can choose to omit this information from a certain someone else and get a "justified" tune out of this ordeal! Lol!

[ErikSS]

This makes sense. Sorry you had to go through that. Swaps can cause a lot of extra work.

[Trail X]

Thank for the advices. I think I'll have to do the job because those vibrations are really unpleasant and I tried a lot of things to fix it without any result.
It it a good idea to heat each bolt before started removing bolts?
Did you lub (WD40) it before to start the job?
How much time did you spend to finish the job?
I'm a bit nervous begin this job I use my truck for my daily drive and I want advice as much as possible.

I did not heat my bolts before swapping them, but I did use liquid wrench. I'm not sure how well it was able to get in there, but I did spray the ones I could see for a week or so to attempt to loosen them up. I forgot to mention before, I removed the manifold through the top of the engine bay. I don't think theres any easy way to do it through the bottom.

I recall that I started my project around 9am, and even with lunch, hardware store visit, and bolt extraction finished around 6 or 7. I tend to be a slow worker, stepping back too often to analyze and lament my current situation.

[KingBird]

Swapped fuel rails. I forgot how much I hate pulling the intake. To make things worse, after I got it all put together, I had a misfire in cylinder six. Trouble code said it was an open in the injector circuit. I guess I forgot to plug the last injector in. Thank God it was that one, as I was able to reach back there, around the back of the intake and blindly plug the injector back in. Still having the same issue though. I'm going to replace the fuel pressure regulator just as a precaution. I really hope the new tune fixes it.

[mason10198]

pulled the grille while chaingingher air filters and gave her a new nose job (flat black) while I had it off. Also pulled off the chrome "TrailBlazer LS" letters and bowtie off the back and painted those too; they're drying out in the shop right now.

~Sent from Tapatalk for Android~

[KingBird]

pulled the grille while chaingingher air filters and gave her a new nose job (flat black) while I had it off. Also pulled off the chrome "TrailBlazer LS" letters and bowtie off the back and painted those too; they're drying out in the shop right now.

20151020_204625.jpg

~Sent from Tapatalk for Android~

Looks good! I'd like to see what those letters look like on the ride.

[maricard]

Thank for the advices. I think I'll have to do the job because those vibrations are really unpleasant and I tried a lot of things to fix it without any result.
It it a good idea to heat each bolt before started removing bolts?
Did you lub (WD40) it before to start the job?
How much time did you spend to finish the job?
I'm a bit nervous begin this job I use my truck for my daily drive and I want advice as much as possible.

I did not heat my bolts before swapping them, but I did use liquid wrench. I'm not sure how well it was able to get in there, but I did spray the ones I could see for a week or so to attempt to loosen them up. I forgot to mention before, I removed the manifold through the top of the engine bay. I don't think theres any easy way to do it through the bottom.

I recall that I started my project around 9am, and even with lunch, hardware store visit, and bolt extraction finished around 6 or 7. I tend to be a slow worker, stepping back too often to analyze and lament my current situation.

I bought everything I need to do the job : Dorman manifold http://www.cafr.ebay.ca/itm/27174312673 ... EBIDX%3AIT
GM manifold bolts (11x)
and I made my own WD40 (AFT + acetone) thank to Hardtrailz
Now I have to reserve a whole day to do the job. Not easy with my family's planing.
Thank for every advice and I'll post something about it after the job.

[HARDTRAILZ]

Yesterday I got the new replacement Husky Liners installed. Nice to have a lifetime warranty. For some reason the fronts outer edges rolled up and were catching my foot as I would get in and out. Shipped the old in and got new for free.

Also got a Kenwood double din head unit to install. Not anything to help offroad, but an upgrade I have been after for awhile.

Also put a new jerry can on the back since the others were flaking inside.

[mason10198]

pulled the grille while chaingingher air filters and gave her a new nose job (flat black) while I had it off. Also pulled off the chrome "TrailBlazer LS" letters and bowtie off the back and painted those too; they're drying out in the shop right now.

~Sent from Tapatalk for Android~

Looks good! I'd like to see what those letters look like on the ride.

I have to run by the store and get some different adhesives, but here's a preview. I know it's not straight haha I just threw the letters back on to see what it would look like. did the same thing to the bowtie above the license plate too.

~Sent from Tapatalk for Android~

[Trail X]

Thank for the advices. I think I'll have to do the job because those vibrations are really unpleasant and I tried a lot of things to fix it without any result.
It it a good idea to heat each bolt before started removing bolts?
Did you lub (WD40) it before to start the job?
How much time did you spend to finish the job?
I'm a bit nervous begin this job I use my truck for my daily drive and I want advice as much as possible.

I did not heat my bolts before swapping them, but I did use liquid wrench. I'm not sure how well it was able to get in there, but I did spray the ones I could see for a week or so to attempt to loosen them up. I forgot to mention before, I removed the manifold through the top of the engine bay. I don't think theres any easy way to do it through the bottom.

I recall that I started my project around 9am, and even with lunch, hardware store visit, and bolt extraction finished around 6 or 7. I tend to be a slow worker, stepping back too often to analyze and lament my current situation.

I bought everything I need to do the job : Dorman manifold http://www.cafr.ebay.ca/itm/27174312673 ... EBIDX%3AIT
GM manifold bolts (11x)
and I made my own WD40 (AFT + acetone) thank to Hardtrailz
Now I have to reserve a whole day to do the job. Not easy with my family's planing.
Thank for every advice and I'll post something about it after the job.

The gasket that comes with the manifold is garbage, its one of those paper ones. Get a metal replacement. Also, get a replacement lead donut seal for the connection to the rest of the exhaust. While you're in there, throw in a new O2 sensor... you'll have a hard time getting the old one off anyways. Good luck!

[moose1]

Got a shipment from rock auto, hubs and ubj's. Last set of timken's I'm buying. Not saying there's any thing wrong with them but pay a premium for made in South Korea. last year i bought one it was made in USofA. Just saying WTF ever happen to you get what you pay for. should have known by the 1 year versus 3 year warranty and the 40 bucks cheaper. I'll stop bitchn'.Thanks for listenin'.

[Mirage]

Put in some new LED headlights, tail/brake lights as well as frt side markers. Also some new aux reverse lights to replace my old worn out ones.