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HARDTRAILZ wrote:Grimor:
My frame and body do not align like they should, so the drivers side wing is actually trimmed about 1-1/2" forward to line up with the fender. The fab guy did a good job of boxing the front near the head lights to make it look good though.
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When you did the body lift did you leave the bolts loose and drive a bit to let things shift and settle? It really helps keep everything trued up.
Grimor wrote:HARDTRAILZ wrote:Grimor:
My frame and body do not align like they should, so the drivers side wing is actually trimmed about 1-1/2" forward to line up with the fender. The fab guy did a good job of boxing the front near the head lights to make it look good though.
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When you did the body lift did you leave the bolts loose and drive a bit to let things shift and settle? It really helps keep everything trued up.
I did, the lines on the body are good, everything lines up. I think the frame either got tweaked when the truck bounced off the pole last winter, pr it's been in a wreck before. I think the hood and drivers door got repainted at some point before I got the truck. Running stock tires, you have a lot of room to be off and not notice a difference. Running 34"+ wheels or welding on a bumper you really start to see stuff not lining up.
bartonmd wrote:Grimor wrote:HARDTRAILZ wrote:Grimor:
My frame and body do not align like they should, so the drivers side wing is actually trimmed about 1-1/2" forward to line up with the fender. The fab guy did a good job of boxing the front near the head lights to make it look good though.
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When you did the body lift did you leave the bolts loose and drive a bit to let things shift and settle? It really helps keep everything trued up.
I did, the lines on the body are good, everything lines up. I think the frame either got tweaked when the truck bounced off the pole last winter, pr it's been in a wreck before. I think the hood and drivers door got repainted at some point before I got the truck. Running stock tires, you have a lot of room to be off and not notice a difference. Running 34"+ wheels or welding on a bumper you really start to see stuff not lining up.
The lines on the body will always be good, because the body is one complete structure and the frame is separate. A misaligned body and frame won't show up in door and hood gaps. Where you really see it is where the frame mounted front and rear bumpers meet the body.
Grimor wrote:i guess i could clarify a bit. according to the measurements when i had my frame checked, the front driver side rail is up and back some. every other part of the truck for frame and body line up
ErikSS wrote:Tony, I have some questions about your build.
Do you really plan to go SAS and only have 35" tires? I was recently picked on for considering SAS and only 37" tires... lol
Are you going SAS and only 3.73 gears? Most people who go SAS also gear much lower than that.
You're considering a 6.0 swap. Are you considering the LS2 TBSS engine, or the LQ9 truck engine? Either would be a Very expensive venture. You're transmission would bolt up, but probably not hold up to the additional power. I also doubt you're I6 transfer case would hold up to either engine also. If you're going to do this, you'll probably need a donor truck. You'll need PCM, Transmission Control Module, Transfer case Control Module, as well as the engine, transmission, transfer case and adjusted or changed drive shafts. There are many other parts you would need to change or adjust. Mine started with a 6.0 and it was still a PITA. lol
I like your ambition! I'd be your biggest cheerleader if you tried the 4 link front suspension as that's what I would most like. I do question the Dana 44 axle. I would encourage a Dana 60.
Fastonthetrack wrote:Nice build man. You have a ton of patience it appears. Did you have any caster problems when you installed the d60? I have neg caster on mine now and to address that and perch angle I plan on rotating the axle tubes.
Rickalicka18 wrote:More pics of the wheel spacers on and my dads beautiful powerstroke in the background