Offroad Trailblazers and Envoys

DirtyBacon's front diff swap (pic heavy)

G80, GU6, GT4, GT5, WTF? This section is for gearing and driveline stuff.

by navigator » Wed Jun 25, 2014 7:14 pm

I think I'm going to go out the front.
I'm tempted to go that route and replace my water pump while I am in there (115k) but I haven't had any issues yet.

My other thought is remove the front sway bar and remove the diff in 3 pieces (I think Jon A did it this way). I haven't had the front sway bar connected in months but I think about if plans change and I ever need one again...
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by Trail X » Wed Jun 25, 2014 10:59 pm

My swaybars are all removed, so thats a non-issue.

However, my diff is sealed nicely at this point, and I can't imagine re-applying the sealant while the halves are inside the small cavity in which it resides.

I understand the work involved with frontal removal, but don't fully comprehend the oil-pan removal process. The shop manual implies that it is as simple as just removing the oil pan bolts and the oil pan, but it seems like there could easily be something unforseen in the way like subframes and steering racks.
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by Moots1288 » Wed Jun 25, 2014 11:30 pm

The steering rack has to come down for the oil pan, and it'll be easier to work on the bolts on the diff with the rack down for the front. Even though I did do the removal through the front with the rack and cross brace up the 3rd time ;)
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by Trail X » Thu Jun 26, 2014 12:12 am

Any specialty tools needed Moots?
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by Moots1288 » Thu Jun 26, 2014 12:24 am

Nope, pretty much 1 7/16th open end o big adjustable and 15mm socket and wrench 13mm wrench and 18mm wrench and sockets and a screwdriver yadda yadda not so bad
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by DirtyBacon04 » Thu Jun 26, 2014 5:09 am

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by TBYODA » Thu Jun 26, 2014 7:21 am

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by anthonyl79 » Mon Jun 30, 2014 1:21 am

I would recommend taking it from the top. Quicker, easier and less expensive. No need to remove the oil pan and an alignment when you are done. It took me about 2 hours to have mine out the top. Remove disconnect battery, drain diff fluid, axles, remove front axle actuator, drain radiator, remove fan shroud and fan, remove t-stat housing, and alternator, unbolt front diff and remove. Easy Cheesey!
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by Moots1288 » Mon Jun 30, 2014 7:36 am

You dont need to remove the t-stat housing or the battery
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by Trail X » Mon Jun 30, 2014 7:56 am

Don't even need to drain the radiator, just disconnect the top hose to get the fan out. You also forgot to mention moving the A/C compressor and removing the idler pulley assembly.

I think this was all originally Regulator's idea, so kudos to him on this move.
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by v7guy » Mon Jun 30, 2014 9:45 am

Yeah, it seemed to have originated with Regulator. He used to tell people how easy it was, but I don't think we really had too many people even considering gear changes.
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by Moots1288 » Mon Jun 30, 2014 11:52 am

I've mentioned what to move multiple times
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by Moots1288 » Mon Jun 30, 2014 11:53 am

The lower house has to be removed inorder to pull the diff out.
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by Trail X » Mon Jun 30, 2014 12:07 pm

I didn't have to remove the lower hose.

And I know you have gone over it before, thats what I was basing my post on, just making sure it was clear. The only difference is that I didn't remove the hose.

I did find that you have to remove the bolt at the driver side of the A/C line that runs over the engine in order to get the compressor up above the hole you're making.
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by Wahugg » Mon Jun 30, 2014 12:26 pm

James,

How long did it take you to pull the diff, how long overall for the swap?

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by Moots1288 » Mon Jun 30, 2014 12:35 pm

Where it bolts to the lift bracket?
And you didn't remove it off the tstat?
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by Trail X » Mon Jun 30, 2014 12:42 pm

Yeah, I had to remove that bolt in order to gain enough movement of the A/C line.

I didn't touch the lower hose or the tstat housing. I only had to refill about 2 qts of dexcool that was lost by removing the upper radiator hose.

You'll see in the picture below, I have a piece of pipe holding up the A/C compressor.

Also, a tip for others, I bolted a chain to the top front diff bolt in order to make it easier to pull it up and out.
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by Moots1288 » Mon Jun 30, 2014 12:45 pm

I.didnt use a chain, and I could not fit my hand in there to pull up the diff, good time to flush and put new hoses anyways. I actually grabbed it with one hand and pulled it up, could see a chain working easier.
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by Regulator1175 » Mon Jun 30, 2014 1:06 pm

Wow, It is almost like I knew what I was talking about when I wrote up a how to on this a year ago!

I see a lot of talk about dropping the oil pan and am curious if anyone actually has? I did last week and it is by far one of the hardest parts I have had to remove. It took the need of an engine hoist and lifting the motor about a foot off the mounts. IT SUCKS!!!!
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by Gordinho80 » Mon Jun 30, 2014 1:17 pm

When I swapped my front diff, I dropped the oil pan. I had to drop the steering rack and cross member, so that was a pain in the ass. Probably would have been easier taking the fan and the shroud off and going from the top, but once I started, I had to finish it.
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