Possible change to Vendor, gauging interest in roofracks.

[Gordinho80]

Could you elaborate on how you plan on mounting this to the roof? A little fuzzy on that part...

[Trail X]

Agreed, I think that will be the biggest hurdle.

You're also creating a headache for yourself by having 3 cross bars. If you have 2, they can be the same height. If you have 3, one will have to be longer/shorter in order to account for the curvature of the roof.

Although, the point may be moot depending on the screw pattern in the roof. Are you planning to capture 2 screws per load bar? or 1? 1 would certainly be easier.

[Gordinho80]

Screw pattern in roof, at least for the SWBs, is as follows...

[Philberto]

Could you elaborate on how you plan on mounting this to the roof? A little fuzzy on that part...

Mounting is planned using 3 crossbars, each crossbar mounted via brackets to the roof. Looking at the screw pattern, I'm planning on capturing 2 bolts for the front bar, and probably using a single bracket to capture all 3 bolts for the 2 rear crossbars. This way I fill up all the existing holes on the roof. The center crossbar height will be determined after mounting the front and rear bars, then placing a load floor on them. Crossbar positioning won't be able to be determined exactly until I can get my hands on the ramp to determine where it's beams are. The crossbars will be centered with the beams for maximum suport. The load floor will probably be mounted to the crossbars via pipe clamps with grade 8 bolts, washers, lock washers, and nuts, since they will be subjected to shear force. I'll also have to wait to get the ramp, since I'm not sure if additional support will be needed for the front section.

You're also creating a headache for yourself by having 3 cross bars. If you have 2, they can be the same height. If you have 3, one will have to be longer/shorter in order to account for the curvature of the roof.

I know having 3 cross bars will be more difficult to implement, but I'm confident I can manage that rather easily. There are two reasons for having the additional cross bar: More length on the rack should have more support, and since I'm planning on holding more weight than the factory cross bars are rated for, I would like to distribute the weight more evenly across the roof, just to be safe. For an EXT model, I may even end up going with 4 crossbars, due to the unusual roof shape. Speaking of which, can anybody gift me a picture of the EXT roof?

[bgwolfpack]

'Old design' thoughts from the OS Phil?

[Philberto]

Old design features that will be implemented (at least in my personal rack):

*limb riser mounts
*spoiler in front of lights/integrated to lights (plexiglass)
*Flat area for RTT in rear


Old design features dropped in recognition of cost, impracticality, etc:
*no more hinged sides - could be implemented, but not necessary for RTT
*no more custom tube construction - why reinvent the wheel?
*3 custom crossbars vs 2 factory crossbars - funky factory crossbar shape, combined with poor weight distribution with 2 crossbars and difficulty for most in acquiring a 3rd. Also considering height issues.
*slightly shorter (lengthwise) rack - limited by length of average ATV ramp, but also dropoff at front of roof makes extra length unnecessary.
*Aluminum vs Steel construction - side effect of going with ATV ramp, saves weight.
*custom mounts instead of rails - extra weight capacity, also lower profile. Factory rails aren't that beefy either.

[bgwolfpack]

I still like the 'old design' because it would work better with the RTT in regards to being a stable platform for the RTT to set upon regardless as to how it's mounted to the roof of the truck.

Now back to the issue I've tried to get answered for a while. The roofs are rated to 200 pounds correct? Is that the roofs capacity or the rating for the rails? If it's the roof then we're screwed even talking about it. I like to sleep with my lovely wife but the two of us together weigh more than the rating allows.

Is everything ok with Teebes? Our smiles are still missing.

[Zero]

I have also wondered how a RRT would work if the roof is only rated for 200lbs.

[Philberto]

I've looked into it, and it is the rails and crossbars that are only rated to 200 lbs. The roof must be able to support the entire weight of the car in the event of rollover, so its structural members are more than strong enough. Only one way to know: try it and test everything, but I'm very sure there won't be any problems with the roof supporting the weight as long as the mounts are in the proper locations and the proper crossbars are used.

[The Roadie]

Empirical evidence only, not supported by engineering analysis at all, but I carried between 400-500 pounds in my Surco during Sierra Nevada trips in 2007 and 2008. Lots of rock crawling and high speed washboards in Death Valley and the like. I regret it, and hope to pack a LOT lighter for the future, but the firewood had to go SOMEWHERE, and you aren't allowed to pick it up most places. Where you can, like most National Forests allow deadfall to be collected, you have to stock up for the next 2-3 days of cold desert conditions. So there's 150 pounds of the roof load. Three fuel containers are another 100 for those times when you're 350 miles between gas stations.



RTTs can weigh more when people are in them because you're not bounding along on washboards. Conjugal enjoyment of the RTT is always subject to spousal disapproval unless you're alone at a campsite, unless you stabilize the truck to the ground with RV jack/stabilizers like these. They worry WAY too much.

[Zero]

Does anyone actually make or use stabilizers like that for their RRT when out and about off road? Seems a bit over kill. Its called rouging it for a reason hahahaha

[bgwolfpack]

Does anyone actually make or use stabilizers like that for their RRT when out and about off road? Seems a bit over kill. Its called rouging it for a reason hahahaha

Depends on the size of the wife.




Didn't we used to have other smilies?

[Trail X]

Didn't we used to have other smilies?

Haven't we been over this? Teebes has control over the server hard drive... find Teebes, and you get the smilies back.

[bgwolfpack]

Didn't we used to have other smilies?

Haven't we been over this? Teebes has control over the server hard drive... find Teebes, and you get the smilies back.

Sorry missed out on that conversation. (Jees, lighten up!)

Don't tell us you really don't know where he is?

ON TOPIC James, you've been critical of going over the 200 lbs limit. Do you feel these roofs could take the RTT weight? I wonder if Phil is perusing a bad idea.

[Trail X]

Sorry missed out on that conversation. (Jees, lighten up!)

Don't tell us you really don't know where he is?

Well... I know essentially WHERE he is. Just not when he's coming back.

ON TOPIC James, you've been critical of going over the 200 lbs limit. Do you feel these roofs could take the RTT weight? I wonder if Phil is perusing a bad idea.

The engineers probably set that spec for a few reasons.

First, the stock cross-bars suck... With the load of 10 gallons of fuel (~65lbs), a 30 lb. bike, and the rack (~30 lbs) the rear cross bar was greatly deforming in the plastic ends. It didn't feel safe.

Second, weight on the roof affects the stability of a vehicle. If you put over 200 lbs on the roof, you'd certainly feel it in the corners... especially if your sway bar is disconnected. Thats more of a liability.

Third, 200lbs when going over a bump could easily become an impulse load of 400 or 600 lbs.

A RTT weights, what, 100 lbs? As long as you substantially spread the weight out in a similar method to the stock rack, you'll be fine. Don't rely on little 2" diameter supports... you may dimple the roof. A static load of, say, 450 lbs should be ok... just don't get too frisky or you may slightly deform the sheet metal. I do think you're doing yourself a disservice by trying to create new mounting brackets when there's a built in solution available. KISS.

[Philberto]

My only concern with the existing mounting rails is that they don't go far enough forward, and I don't trust the lateral strength of them with any sort of load. Give that I can move them laterally with my hands, it's not the sort of thing I am willing to invest time into to try and strengthen.

[Trail X]

You can move yours by hand?

Sounds like you need to tighten it up a little.

[Philberto]

No, i can deform the section between the middle and the front (where it's raised) and I don't like that.

[The Roadie]

Oh, yeah. That gap needs a filler to spread the stress. I bent mine 3/8" or so. I think of it as a jounce absorber though.

[Trail X]

The simple solution is to make your supports further forward... over the front mounting location. Since you're designing yours from scratch, that should be easy to adjust.