Offroad Trailblazers and Envoys

Disconnect rebuild

G80, GU6, GT4, GT5, WTF? This section is for gearing and driveline stuff.

by Chango » Tue Apr 15, 2014 9:00 pm

KingBird wrote:No, it merely connects the passenger half shaft to the intermediate shaft in the diff. This bypasses the need for a disconnect and makes the disconnect an intermediate shaft bearing assembly.


Well put..I didn't understand at first, even using the infamous "search" didnt help(maybe because of how I worded it?)
Turns the front diff all the time, as opposed to with the disconnect; which only spins it with the disconnect engaged. Correct??
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by Cable810 » Tue Apr 15, 2014 9:03 pm

Chango wrote:
KingBird wrote:No, it merely connects the passenger half shaft to the intermediate shaft in the diff. This bypasses the need for a disconnect and makes the disconnect an intermediate shaft bearing assembly.


Well put..I didn't understand at first, even using the infamous "search" didnt help(maybe because of how I worded it?)
Turns the front diff all the time, as opposed to with the disconnect; which only spins it with the disconnect engaged. Correct??


If thats the case that explains the "Front Diff Wear" Jd mentioned.
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by Trail X » Tue Apr 15, 2014 9:08 pm

Cable810 wrote:No does the AWD sleeve make it AWD all the time?


That's a comment made by someone who needs to spend more time understanding the systems under the truck. :facepalm:
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by KingBird » Tue Apr 15, 2014 9:09 pm

I believe so. This might affect mileage. My computer says I'm getting 15.5, but my speedo reads 3.7 mph slow so it's off a little....
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by DustinC1989 » Tue Apr 15, 2014 9:18 pm

The AWD sleeve will make the disconnect permanently "connected", doesn't change anything for the transfer case though...
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by Moots1288 » Tue Apr 15, 2014 9:22 pm

The diff will just always be spinning, but there is no torque being applied.
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by CarbEnvoy » Wed Apr 16, 2014 1:13 am

I've read all about putting the sleeve into the disconnect.

I've see that many people have broken the disconnect housing when removing it. I noticed on RockAuto that there are some Axle Disconnects listed as AWD, and so I thought rather than replace with a 4WD disconnect, one could just buy the AWD version. Plus, it was cheaper.
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by Cable810 » Wed Apr 16, 2014 9:08 am

Trail X wrote:
Cable810 wrote:No does the AWD sleeve make it AWD all the time?


That's a comment made by someone who needs to spend more time understanding the systems under the truck. :facepalm:


:lol: I'll just go hide in my corner now.....
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by The Roadie » Wed Apr 16, 2014 9:45 am

Cable810 wrote:
:lol: I'll just go hide in my corner now.....
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by Cable810 » Wed Apr 16, 2014 10:35 am

And read yes :salut:
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by CarbEnvoy » Fri Apr 18, 2014 4:22 am

Checked my inner CV tonight while replacing the swaybar bushings. It has quite a bit of play in it, all stock except tires too. :cry:

Will a rebuild be enough, or will I need to replace it? Or will I not know until I open it up?
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by HARDTRAILZ » Fri Apr 18, 2014 6:36 am

CV's are so cheap we just replace them rather than rebuildings
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by NC_IslandRunner » Fri Apr 18, 2014 7:55 am

HARDTRAILZ wrote:CV's are so cheap we just replace them rather than rebuildings


You can get lifetime warranty CVs for $70 and never buy one again, Advance Auto knows me well now. I've gotten 3 or 4 replacements so far for free, just bring them the bad core and your good to go.
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by CarbEnvoy » Fri Apr 18, 2014 10:37 am

HARDTRAILZ wrote:CV's are so cheap we just replace them rather than rebuildings


Sorry, I wrote my post last night at 2 am and I left out some info.

There was play at the inner CV shaft on the passenger side, which I've read indicates that the disconnect is going kaput.

So I'm wondering if I need a new disconnect, or if it is early enough that I can save it with a rebuild.
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by The Roadie » Fri Apr 18, 2014 11:10 am

You can't tell until you get it apart. If the damage is confined to the bearing, then do the bearing, seal, and anything else inside that's bad looking. If the bearing race has rotated in the housing, chewing it up, then the housing's toast.
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by CarbEnvoy » Fri Apr 18, 2014 11:23 am

Okay, that's kinda what I thought. I guess I'll be out of commission while the disconnect is out and waiting for parts. Not sure when I'll get to doing this job.
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by Cable810 » Fri Apr 18, 2014 11:58 am

This right??

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by CarbEnvoy » Tue May 27, 2014 4:31 pm

I'm picking up a disconnect from an auto wrecker, the CV felt pretty tight, tighter than mine anyway. I am planning to rebuild it, then swap it into my truck. Does 80$ sound reasonable for one? Not sure how many kms (miles) on the vehicle.
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by navigator » Tue May 27, 2014 4:50 pm

sounds like a good idea. The good thing about getting the one from the wreck is you can look at it and inspect the parts, if it is too toasted you can likely return it. You might get lucky and find when you open it up that there are no visible signs of wear and you can just give it a good cleaning/greasing and be good to go.
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by CarbEnvoy » Tue May 27, 2014 6:18 pm

navigator wrote:sounds like a good idea. The good thing about getting the one from the wreck is you can look at it and inspect the parts, if it is too toasted you can likely return it. You might get lucky and find when you open it up that there are no visible signs of wear and you can just give it a good cleaning/greasing and be good to go.


This is what I am hoping, it's all good and I can just clean and grease. If the housing is worn and I can't use it I can return it so no loss.
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