What did you do to your GMT today?

[Chango]

Same goes for the 35mm. That way you can re-use the oem nut and save yourself the need to buy a 36mm socket.

-Wahugg

Same what? You can't use the 35 mm on aftermarket 36mm nuts...

You are not supposed to reuse those nuts, I sure would not use them on another cv.

Simplest is to get a 36mm socket so you can use it on either stock or aftermarket and do not have to buy a 35mm.

Oops...what's the reasoning behind this? Can only torque the nuts one time?

[DustinC1989]

So every time you take the nut off to work on something, it needs replaced?

[HARDTRAILZ]

I dont replace them every time. I believe on some of the replacement cv's there is a sticker that says similar to "one time use" or "do not reuse nut" something like that. I beilieve many auto makers state this as well.

They supposedly lose torque value with every use. I reuse them, but only use the one on cv it came on. I don't mix n match them in case the threads are slightly different or something.

[DustinC1989]

That makes sense, I own a 36mm anyway so I wouldn't re-use the old nut on the new shaft.
But I wouldn't go as go as far as replacing the nut every time, I'd have to buy stock in them... that's why I was curious

[TBYODA]

Installed my tranny cooler last Friday. I used a B & M supercooler # 70268 along with a Hayden transmission line fitting kit so I would not have to cut the lines.



Before


After
Note: I did put some electrical tape over the clip because I forgot remove the little plastic retainer.

[Trail X]

Same what? You can't use the 35 mm on aftermarket 36mm nuts...

You are not supposed to reuse those nuts, I sure would not use them on another cv.

Simplest is to get a 36mm socket so you can use it on either stock or aftermarket and do not have to buy a 35mm.

I've reused my stock 35mm nuts over and over and over on every aftermarket shaft I've had. The threads are all the same.

[dvanbramer88]

Nice Job Robert!

[DustinC1989]

Hayden transmission line fitting kit

Wouldn't happen to have a part # for the kit you used, would you? Trans cooler is something I really NEED to get done but dont wanna spent what PCMofNC wants.

[Wahugg]

Same what? You can't use the 35 mm on aftermarket 36mm nuts...

You are not supposed to reuse those nuts, I sure would not use them on another cv.

Simplest is to get a 36mm socket so you can use it on either stock or aftermarket and do not have to buy a 35mm.

The 35mm can be applied in the same situation as the 36mm.

As with James I've used my OEM 35mm nut on my replacement shaft with no ill effects. The threads are the same pitch/size (and if they weren't then you'd feel the obvious cross threading and stop). This way I don't drop $19 on a 35mm socket to get the old nut off, and another $19 dollars to put the new nut on.

Looking at my replacement nut, it is not a torque sensitive nut as it may appear. It simply has the built on washer in the rear so the nut doesn't eat into the splines on the hub, and (I'm assuming) so the force is spread evenly against the hub once tightened.

-Wahugg

[TBYODA]

Hayden transmission line fitting kit

Wouldn't happen to have a part # for the kit you used, would you? Trans cooler is something I really NEED to get done but dont wanna spent what PCMofNC wants.

I agree, way over priced IMHO. The B & M cooler SupperCooler was $54.92 and the Hayden Automotive 397 Transmission Line Fitting Kit was $9.94 on Amazon. $60 bucks worth of insurance. I chose the B & M because of this statement "The unit monitors resistance to flow by allowing a controlled amount of ATF to pass through a self-regulating orifice. Controlled by viscosity, thicker ATF is returned directly to lube through two bypass openings in the stacked plate core, while thinner ATF is directed through the core to cool as operating temperatures increase. " Which is a overly wordy way of saying Low Temperature Bypass: yes.

Time will tell if I made good choice.

B&M Coolers
B&M SupperCoolers 70268

[CarbEnvoy]

Haven't done it yet, but I received today new rear coil springs (Raybestos XL/EXT springs), coil insulators, and front swaybar bushings. Hope to install them this weekend, removing the leaking air bags.

I hope to follow this up with a lift once I see how much of an increase in height I get in the back over the air springs.

[HARDTRAILZ]

The 35mm can be applied in the same situation as the 36mm.

How does a 35mm socket fit a 36mm aftermarket nut?

As with James I've used my OEM 35mm nut on my replacement shaft with no ill effects. The threads are the same pitch/size (and if they weren't then you'd feel the obvious cross threading and stop). This way I don't drop $19 on a 35mm socket to get the old nut off, and another $19 dollars to put the new nut on.

But if one has neither socket, then a 36 fits both and only one 36 mm is needed... Only a single $19 cost and will work effectively on either that may be on yours or another truck you are with. If you only buy a 35, you could not help me and one would have to spend $19 for a 36 anyway.




Good to know you guys reused the 35 without issue. I may have to one of these days, but for now its simplest and safest to me to use the new one that comes on the cv.

[Wahugg]

The 35mm can be applied in the same situation as the 36mm.

How does a 35mm socket fit a 36mm aftermarket nut?

It doesn't and I never said that. That's not the situation I was referring to. I was referring to your original post...

36mm works on stock and aftermarket CVs.

The 35mm nut will work in the same situation, ie it will work 'on stock and aftermarket CVs.'

-Wahugg

[mikekey]

My aftermarkets are 35mm. But boy oh boy, I had to order online to get both a 35mm and 36mm deep socket for that thing. To my surprise, I couldn't walk into Sears, Home Depot, Northern Tool or Harbor Freight and find one on the shelf. Although Harbor Freight had one in a set, but I didn't want to pay $80 dollars for a set when I need only one socket.

On another note, I've got a major problem right now with my brakes. I bleed all my brakes and we have a nice firm pedal feel but once you turn on the engine the pedal goes all the way to the floor and the brakes don't work. Not sure if that is a sign of booster failure or what. I'm probably going to end up getting her towed. I just don't have the time anymore to handle a down vehicle. Not happy.

[HARDTRAILZ]

The 35mm can be applied in the same situation as the 36mm.

How does a 35mm socket fit a 36mm aftermarket nut?

It doesn't and I never said that. That's not the situation I was referring to. I was referring to your original post...

36mm works on stock and aftermarket CVs.

The 35mm nut will work in the same situation, ie it will work 'on stock and aftermarket CVs.'

-Wahugg

If some aftermarket cv's have a 36MM nut, then you cant wholly say it will work in both situations. It will work in some. The 36MM will work in all. So it would be the better investment.

[HARDTRAILZ]

My aftermarkets are 35mm. But boy oh boy, I had to order online to get both a 35mm and 36mm deep socket for that thing. To my surprise, I couldn't walk into Sears, Home Depot, Northern Tool or Harbor Freight and find one on the shelf. Although Harbor Freight had one in a set, but I didn't want to pay $80 dollars for a set when I need only one socket.

On another note, I've got a major problem right now with my brakes. I bleed all my brakes and we have a nice firm pedal feel but once you turn on the engine the pedal goes all the way to the floor and the brakes don't work. Not sure if that is a sign of booster failure or what. I'm probably going to end up getting her towed. I just don't have the time anymore to handle a down vehicle. Not happy.

For Future Reference to guys looking for a 36mm socket...it is one of the tools available for rent or purchase through rental program at most all major auto parts store. I rented from Orielly and rented(kept) one from Autozone for $20 a few years back.

That sucks. I hate bleeding brakes just for crappy situations like that. Good Luck!

[KingBird]

[HARDTRAILZ]

Back on topic...

Today I am looking at replacements for my less than 6 month old Skyjacker N8030 shocks. They are already rusting and it appears they have no finish warranty. Function is completely fine, but just bugs me they started rusting that quick. I am asking the vendor I bought them from to see if they can do anything for me. Hopefully they can replace them, but not getting my hopes up.

My Skyjacker springs are rusting as well and I will likely get them powdercoated sometime since they were 2nd hand and obviously would have no warranty.

I happened upon a Rough Country shock for free that is new and will work, so likely buying the other one and giving them a whirl if the vendor can't help. Kinda want to see if there is difference in them as well, so still may go this route.

[Wahugg]

Edit; Not worth it

-Wahugg

[Aries]

On another note, I've got a major problem right now with my brakes. I bleed all my brakes and we have a nice firm pedal feel but once you turn on the engine the pedal goes all the way to the floor and the brakes don't work.

You should be bleeding the brakes with the vehicle running?