Disconnect rebuild

[Chango]

Took about thirty min to get everything out of the way, then about 3.5 hours to try and get this stupid disconnect off the oil pan. I really didn't want to break it so I took it slow and didn't pound on things too hard. Took off the factory "skid plates" and used two screw drivers(one on each side) to pry the disconnect off the oil pan. The worst part was trying to get the last gear off the shaft. Once that came off, it only took a few min to get the housing off.






Once it came off, it looks like all the bearings are in good shape. So it looks like I'll replace them while its apart, then look a little deeper into where my rattles were coming from. Really don't know if they were coming from here.?

[Chango]

Cleaned up all the parts and this was the only thing I found. Grooved on both sides...
In JD's write up his didn't look like this, so I assume its not supposed to be like this. Has anyone else had this happen? Could bad bearings cause this,? or should I look deeper into something else?

[navigator]

I've not had any issues with my SD yet but it sounds like yours started acting up before anything was worn too much.
Some of the other guys should chime in but I think I would just clean everything up, slap some fresh grease in there and put it back together.

I would also likely use JD's mod to add the grease fitting.

[Trail X]

Which washer is that? Is that the one between the gears? Or between one of the gears and the aluminum housings?

No, its not supposed to look like that though. The second time I rebuilt mine, the outside washers had some good wear to them. It happens when you have a high lift on the cvs, and when the joints spin, they bend down on the inner tripod, which can cock the outer gear relative to the inner gear. This creates bad engagement between the gears, and creates wear like you see there. But normally that wear is coupled with toasted bearings. I do see some added wear on your outer housing though. Take a closer look on the inside around the bearing hole.

[Chango]

Its #13 ..the middle thrust washer. I looked at the inside of the housing, it looks fine. I think the picture shows some old grease that looks like some wear..
The strange part about this is I have yet to put on my susp. lift. All stock with stock size tire. I guess I will replace the washer, bearings, and hope for the best!

[Trail X]

I can't access your photos from work, but as I recall, I saw the 4 cast-in nubs around the main bore were eaten away. It also looked like there was a machined flat face inside these 4 nubs... but I didn't think that face was actually machined. It looked like the thrust washer on the outside of the gears spun to me.

How does the CV shaft look? Is it worn down? That might explain how you got extra play in the gears. Although, I'd still expect to see wear on the seal at a minimum.

[Chango]

Very good eye!! Thanks for pointing that out! Now the question is...Could I reuse this housing if I do the AWD sleeve? Or is this housing junk. I will look at the C.V. shaft again, what should I look for? It wasn't leaking any grease, and all the boots are on tight.

[Bcchevy]

My nubs were gone also from the thrust washer spinning. Look like the grease became a paste and made it spin. I wasn't going to replace the case so I grease everything with 00 grease then the rest with reg wheel bearing grease.
I also put in the awd sleeve.
No problems so far and have close a 1000 miles on it. Can ck out my build thread


Sent From The Unit

[Chango]

Tapered side towards wheel?

[Chango]

Alright so I may be retarded...but I've got everything on the truck, trying to get the new CV to "lock in" to the disconnect. I line up the splines, slip it in but it won't "lock". I can pull it right back out by hand?
I installed the tapered side of the disconnect towards the tire. Should this seat once everything is bolted back up? Or should it be "locked" in as soon as you shove it in the disconnect?

[Moots1288]

Alright so I may be retarded...but I've got everything on the truck, trying to get the new CV to "lock in" to the disconnect. I line up the splines, slip it in but it won't "lock". I can pull it right back out by hand?
I installed the tapered side of the disconnect towards the tire. Should this seat once everything is bolted back up? Or should it be "locked" in as soon as you shove it in the disconnect?

It should be locked in once you pop the cv in, thats what the c clip is for.

[The Roadie]

It has to click in. Sometimes it takes a rubber mallet to whack at the straight CV shaft from the threaded end.

[Chango]

Thanks...I didn't know I would have to whack the threaded end. I knew it was supposed to lock in, but just thought it would just by pushing it in. Took a hammer and block of wood to get it set.

[Opeth]

When you install it, make sure the c-clip is facing upwards as for some reason it makes it pop in easier

[Trail X]

I never use a mallet through the whole cv joint. I really don't think that sort of loading is good on the external joint. Its very strong in torsion, but not in axial compression. I use the tripod joint of the axle itself as a slide hammer of sorts.

[CarbEnvoy]

I don't think I have to do my disconnect yet as my truck does not yet (hopefully soon) have a lift on it. But I was curious if anyone has just put in an AWD disconnect for a Bravada/9-7x etc.

I realize that if possible, you can just add the sleeve to your existing disconnect if it's still working. But if it's too worn, or it breaks during removal, wouldn't it be easy to just order an AWD disconnect?

[KingBird]

From what I've read, yes, however, I can only go off that since I have a Bravada.

On the intermediate shaft bearing assembly for the Bravada, there is a little rubber plug where the other components would go if it were a disconnect. I'm thinking that's a great location to mount a grease zerk though I haven't tried it yet.

[DustinC1989]

I don't think I have to do my disconnect yet as my truck does not yet (hopefully soon) have a lift on it. But I was curious if anyone has just put in an AWD disconnect for a Bravada/9-7x etc.

I realize that if possible, you can just add the sleeve to your existing disconnect if it's still working. But if it's too worn, or it breaks during removal, wouldn't it be easy to just order an AWD disconnect?

Its been discussed, talked about, done and rather well documented on here. A good majority of us already have or are planning on the AWD sleeve

[Cable810]

No does the AWD sleeve make it AWD all the time?

[KingBird]

No, it merely connects the passenger half shaft to the intermediate shaft in the diff. This bypasses the need for a disconnect and makes the disconnect an intermediate shaft bearing assembly.