<REAL TB> Feedback on 33" Gear Ratio

[DavidRant0n]

What Is the best choice for a daily driver?

[navigator]

since you are soliciting feedback and real build threads don't allow feedback I'm going to guess this isn't a real build thread but a feedback thread.

I like those silverado wheels. When my tires wear out I'm thinking of trying to find a set myself to go with a set of spacers and larger tires.

On the re-gearing, if you have 3.42 and want to go with 33's you should re-gear but If I were going through the trouble to re-gear I would go ahead with 4.10.
If you have 3.73 or 4.10 gears I expect most would not worry about re-gearing for 33's.
If you need to regear think seriously about adding a locker at that time. If nothing else add one to the front while you have it out and add one to the rear when you have the funds later.

Your lift choices are fine, if you have very many miles you should replace your front shocks when you install your lift.

A real oil pan skid is something you should consider. I would prioritize it over the body lift(actually either lift for most folks). Your front hitch will protect the bottom of the radiator from most obstacles but will also limit your approach angle. I expect when you go to the 3 inch body lift that front hitch might look a little funny.

[HARDTRAILZ]

Where you going to find those gear ratios to actually fit our diffs?

[fishsticks]

Where you going to find those gear ratios to actually fit our diffs?

This.


Front ratios available:

3.42
3.73
4.10
4.56


Unless you're planning on a SAS right out of the gate that's what you are stuck with. I'd be running 4.88s or 5.29s otherwise.

[Rob93]

Where you going to find those gear ratios to actually fit our diffs?

Where did he even get those numbers from is what I'm wondering... I have never heard of those gear ratios in any application.

Also... why are you dictating the gear ratio you want based on what your ratio is stock... shouldn't you be basing it off of your final tire size? Unless you are trying to fix your speedo, but there are better ways to do that

[navigator]

I expect he was looking at a ratio/RPM/size chart

[DavidRant0n]

since you are soliciting feedback and real build threads don't allow feedback I'm going to guess this isn't a real build thread but a feedback thread.

I like those silverado wheels. When my tires wear out I'm thinking of trying to find a set myself to go with a set of spacers and larger tires.

On the re-gearing, if you have 3.42 and want to go with 33's you should re-gear but If I were going through the trouble to re-gear I would go ahead with 4.10.
If you have 3.73 or 4.10 gears I expect most would not worry about re-gearing for 33's.
If you need to regear think seriously about adding a locker at that time. If nothing else add one to the front while you have it out and add one to the rear when you have the funds later.

Your lift choices are fine, if you have very many miles you should replace your front shocks when you install your lift.

A real oil pan skid is something you should consider. I would prioritize it over the body lift(actually either lift for most folks). Your front hitch will protect the bottom of the radiator from most obstacles but will also limit your approach angle. I expect when you go to the 3 inch body lift that front hitch might look a little funny.

with 99%! Thanks!

I expect he was looking at a ratio/RPM/size chart

I was, is that a bad idea?

Where you going to find those gear ratios to actually fit our diffs?

I am hoping that someone could tell me

since you are soliciting feedback and real build threads don't allow feedback I'm going to guess this isn't a real build thread but a feedback thread.

Can you explain what you mean? I'm not so good at forums! I'm kind of a

[bartonmd]

since you are soliciting feedback and real build threads don't allow feedback I'm going to guess this isn't a real build thread but a feedback thread.

Can you explain what you mean? I'm not so good at forums! I'm kind of a

Per my post in your other thread:

If you haven't already, you're going to get a PM about your "build thread"... Read the big orange/yellow rules at the top of the build thread section, including at the top of your post... Also read the stickies in the built thread section.

Mike

[navigator]

charts on tire size/rpm/gear ratio use mathematical formulas.
That doesn't mean that you can actually buy gears in that ratio, you want to be close.
For 33's the ideal gearing might be 3.89 but you might only be able to get the gears in 3.73 or 4.10.
Most folks here would go straight to 4.10s

On the build thread thing, we have a really strict standard for them.
They must be in a certain format and there is no discussion.
This makes it so if we want to see how James did a certain thing we can look at 5 pages of detail instead of searching through 50 pages of "noise" to find that one post you needed.

When you start making changes, you can follow the format and add to your build thread. You can use this thread to solicit ideas or bounce ideas off of the group but only post the final results in your build thread.

[HARDTRAILZ]

I expect he was looking at a ratio/RPM/size chart

I was, is that a bad idea?

Great idea for reference.

Where you going to find those gear ratios to actually fit our diffs?

I am hoping that someone could tell me

You are not.

[navigator]

David, I was reminded that the only one of our brothers currently wheeling (IFS) with a front locker is breaking front axle shafts so a front locker might not be the best option for our platform.

[fishsticks]

David, I was reminded that the only one of our brothers currently wheeling (IFS) with a front locker is breaking front axle shafts so a front locker might not be the best option for our platform.

It was fine until I combined the locker with 35" tires. I'm lowering the front 2" in an effort to keep outer CV angle under control. This may help.

[HARDTRAILZ]

Lowering the lift amount or just tire size?

[fishsticks]

Lowering the lift amount or just tire size?

Sticking with the 35s for now.

Going to try 88 springs only with the body lift. Maybe add an outside shim or two to fine tune. I may also add on to the bump stop on the shock to keep the tires off the firewall. If that doesn't work I may tub the firewall.

So much for leaving the TB alone in favor of the Yota.

[DavidRant0n]

Where you going to find those gear ratios to actually fit our diffs?

This.


Front ratios available:

3.42
3.73
4.10
4.56


Unless you're planning on a SAS right out of the gate that's what you are stuck with. I'd be running 4.88s or 5.29s otherwise.

http://www.drivetrainsuperstore.com/DiffWizard.html

Is this a no go?

[The Roadie]

http://www.drivetrainsuperstore.com/DiffWizard.html

Is this a no go?

Didn't work for me in Firefox just now so I wrote them off. Randy's Ring & Pinion is *the* definitive site for me.

Ummm, what else can I say. You shouldn't even consider changing gears unless you have a HUGE budget and/or can use the benefit. Until you get on a trail that you are denied because of lack of torque, I wouldn't consider it. And in 4LO, aired down, I almost always run out of ground clearance or traction before I run out of torque.

And if you're seriously considering ANY sort of tires on 20" rims, you haven't done enough reading yet about airing down and why having the maximum sidewall size is a good thing. I changed from my factory 17's down to aftermarket 16's for this reason, but some members are OK running 17's. Nobody runs 20's unless they're a mall crawler.

[Nakashige]

You will need spacers if he goes with the 20s with 33s or stock and 33s. Aftermarket with the correct back space will be the only way with out spacers and with z71 you need adapters

[DavidRant0n]

http://www.drivetrainsuperstore.com/DiffWizard.html

Is this a no go?

Didn't work for me in Firefox just now so I wrote them off. Randy's Ring & Pinion is *the* definitive site for me.

Ummm, what else can I say. You shouldn't even consider changing gears unless you have a HUGE budget and/or can use the benefit. Until you get on a trail that you are denied because of lack of torque, I wouldn't consider it. And in 4LO, aired down, I almost always run out of ground clearance or traction before I run out of torque.

And if you're seriously considering ANY sort of tires on 20" rims, you haven't done enough reading yet about airing down and why having the maximum sidewall size is a good thing. I changed from my factory 17's down to aftermarket 16's for this reason, but some members are OK running 17's. Nobody runs 20's unless they're a mall crawler.

The tires I was looking at for the 20s are almost 11" wide and have a 6" section height. Still a no? I don't want to be a mall crawler but I do like those wheels.
How do you like the look of the Z71 Wheels?

You will need spacers if he goes with the 20s with 33s or stock and 33s. Aftermarket with the correct back space will be the only way with out spacers and with z71 you need adapters

Can't the AWD TBs run 20s? low profile tires?

[The Roadie]

Can't the AWD TBs run 20s? low profile tires?

AWD TBs SS have bigger brakes so I think they can run 18"+ only. But it's sort of irrelevant.

Still a no? I don't want to be a mall crawler but I do like those wheels.
How do you like the look of the Z71 Wheels?

You are in the entirely wrong site if you're asking if we like the LOOK of 20's. Sure we might like the LOOK. I don't but some do. But they're not FUNCTIONAL. Rims are rims. They hold tires. If I could spend 90% of my traction budget on the tires and 10% on the rims I would, but it usually ends up being about 60/40 if I was replacing both at the same time. An excellent tire is $200-250 each. Steel rims can be had for $20 used. Wheel more and you'll find out.

[DavidRant0n]

Can't the AWD TBs run 20s? low profile tires?

AWD TBs SS have bigger brakes so I think they can run 18"+ only. But it's sort of irrelevant.

Still a no? I don't want to be a mall crawler but I do like those wheels.
How do you like the look of the Z71 Wheels?

You are in the entirely wrong site if you're asking if we like the LOOK of 20's. Sure we might like the LOOK. I don't but some do. But they're not FUNCTIONAL. Rims are rims. They hold tires. If I could spend 90% of my traction budget on the tires and 10% on the rims I would, but it usually ends up being about 60/40 if I was replacing both at the same time. An excellent tire is $200-250 each. Steel rims can be had for $20 used. Wheel more and you'll find out.

I wasnt sure if the AWD had different tire clearance issues than 4X4 besides the point... I only wanted to know how you liked the Z71 wheels. I was concerned with the functionality of 20s with the 6" section height and nearly 11" width. I am learning... 11" tire, 20x8" wheel, 6" section height...the tires are 3" wider than the wheel = mall crawler?/ unfunctional?