New radio head unit

[TuckerJack]

I know it's only a minor mod, but I felt pretty proud that I installed my first radio! Too bad it came at a price... While installing, I drilled into the temp control to mount the stereo thinking it would be okay. Now only extremely hot air comes out of the passenger side air vents.... Oh well. For now, I'll just keep those vents closed off.


First there was one, then there was many

[v7guy]

While it looks nice and I want one too, usually "completed modifications" involves a thread detailing the install with part numbers, tips and tricks and how to duplicate it.

Otherwise one picture with a comment "I installed this" is pretty much useless. If that's all the effort you're gonna put forth then it belongs in the lounge or the "what did you do to your gmt today" thread.


With that said I'm gonna assume you meant to make a real thread and you've spent all night installing it and your just tired and going to give us details later today. lol

[bartonmd]

Look up and to the left:

Forum rules

Threads must fully document the modification with pictures and verbiage in the first post.
Threads that do not meet this criteria may be moved or deleted.

[TuckerJack]

Okay, here it is! The "how to" to replace the stock stereo. I didn't take many pictures during the process, but I've got one with with dash taken out.

First, the plastic that holds the 4wd, goes around the instrument cluster, and surrounds the heating/AC must be removed. To do this, simply get a philips screw driver and a 7mm socket to remove the panel under the steering column. There are 4 screws to remove this panel that you will use the Philips for (2 behind the screw covers and 2 at the bottom under the black part that holds the OBD connector). Once you remove those screws, the part holding the OBD just pulls down.

Next, use the socket and screwdriver to remove the screws holding the plastic around the radio and instrument cluster. Once those are removed, disconnect all the wiring harnesses (4wd if you have it, the rear windshield wiper control, and the controls for the lights). I had to remove the whole housing for the rear wiper because my wires wouldn't come out and I didn't want to chance pulling them out by tugging on them too hard. If you do this, be careful not to lose the spring in the wiper housing. When you're ready to pull off the plastic, tilt the steering wheel down all the way! This is the only way to remove the plastic.

Once the plastic is removed, use the socket to remove the screws holding the radio and gently pull it out. Once it's out, gently remove the plugs wired into it. Viola! Your old radio is out.

To complete this install/swap, you're going to need an antenna adapter and a wiring harness that adapts to the GM connector from the back of the radio. I picked up a Scosche GM200A and a universal antenna adapter and just cut the rest of the adapters off. This harness is compatible with the Bose sound system but will not work with the premium Bose system. If you're not sure which one you have, the packaging comes with the RPO codes for the premium system. Before you install the wiring harness, you need to connect the wires from the adapter and the wires to your new radio. Depending on your resources and your skill set, you can either crimp the wires together or you can solder the wires together and cover them with heat shrink. The wires for the Scosche adapter are labeled and are standard colors that SHOULD match up to your new radio wires.

Once you have that done, you're ready for the install and mount. My radio was roughly the same size of the stock radio so I just mounted it where the stock radio roughly sat. However, I had to drill into the heating controls and this resulted in no more AC on the passenger side... So BE CAREFUL WHERE YOU DRILL IF YOU HAVE TO!



Once everything is connected, start the engine to make sure you have sound and everything works properly. If everything is operating as it should, then mount your radio and reassemble!

The wiring harness that I bought replaces the stock warning ding for open door and etc. but isnt very loud (which is perfectly fine by me). Also, after you're done re-wiring, there might be an extra wiring harness that is no longer used. Do not be alarmed! I didn't do anything with it and my radio works WONDERFULLY! Hope this helps everyone who wants to add a new radio to their vehicle! Just adding a new head unit really unleashed the true potential of the Bose speakers and now everything sounds BEAUTIFUL. If you've got any questions or comments feel free to let me know!


First there was one, then there was many

[bartonmd]

Cool. I'll probably end up putting an aftermarket head unit in the TB. You can get a setup that turns the OnStar mic and input in the stock stereo into a Bluetooth hands free for like $250, and you can get an input that turns the CD changer input into an audio input for like $100 last I looked... $350 total. Or, you can put in a $150 head unit and get Bluetooth phone hands free, and Bluetooth audio, and an input jack, and a USB in/charger, and better sound. That's the choice I made on the '02 K2500HD and it's looking like that choice that I'll make on the TB as well. I have the Bose stock stereo, but it's not the one with the amp and sub so it should be OK.

Mike

[intensenerd]

Well done. I just put in a Kenwood DDX771 in mine. That whole dash removal wasn't fun. Done it a few times now though since the remote start install.

Had to do some deep dash modification to fit in the new unit with the Sirius/XM antenna but it looks perfect and well worth it.

Good job!

[zippyhead]

I have installed a Pioneer AVH2400BT head unit with Polk Audio db650 6.5" speakers in the doors an adapted an Acoustic Research s12HO sub for use in the trailblazer. Also wired in a monitor for rear passengers (mine didn't come with a monitor in it) as well as a rearview camera that displays on the head unit (imho, this is a must for trailblazers). Works incredibly well and an awesome upgrade. I chose the Polk Audio speakers because they are also marine rated which means if they get wet, nothing is damaged! Wiring is clean as can be and everything tucked away in a very professional manner. All connections are soldered and wrapped with heat shrink. A also built a relay unit for the parking brake and a relay for power because I wasn't too sure if the factory harness provided enough power when cranking up the system. Now, no worries!

FYI on the sub.
Over the years, I've read so many posts in different forums about adapting home theater subs for vehicle use. Almost all either say you can't because vehicles are DC and home is AC or trying to figure out an appropriate DC/AC converter to drive the sub. Both of these are wrong. You CAN use a home theater sub in a vehicle and you DO NOT need to use a converter.

The solution is very simple for anyone interested. Simply remove the plate amp from the sub, seal the hole with MDF or Plywood and paint it to match the sub. Then install a set of speaker terminals into the cabinet and wire it to the speaker in the enclosure. Then mount an appropriate car amp (I used a Pioneer GM-A3602 400 watt amp) to the plywood panel used to seal the hole left from the plate amp removal. Install the appropriate wires and hook the amp to the speaker terminals added earlier. The result is a WONDERFUL SOUNDING car sub. Really cheap way to get a great sub in your vehicle, especially if you happen to have a home sub sitting around not being used.

Anyway, long winded, but I think it's a great system for not alot of money. For all the components and wiring, I spent around $500. If anyone needs any help with av systems, just ask. I am more than happy to give you my 2 cents!

Zippyhead