Offroad Trailblazers and Envoys

Mark's Lift question.

BDS, ReadyLift, Smaxx... You name it, we know about it here.

by JHogg419 » Fri Apr 18, 2014 12:01 pm

I am posting this here in hopes maybe some others can get help from it rather than just email him from his website.

2.5" lift/level kit.
FOR USE WITH: CHEVROLET TRAILBLAZER/ GMC ENVOY
BUICK RAINIER/ OLDSMOBILE BRAVADA 02 & UP.

This 2.5" suspension lift has been long time tested as one of the most economical lift/level kit on the market.
Kit is designed to be used with OEM struts and shocks.

Kit includes:
2pcs 1.5" thick in assembly aluminum spacers
2pcs 0.5" thick above assembly aluminum spacers
2pcs 2.0" rear aluminum lift spacers
2pcs washers
4pcs m10 locking flange nuts

THESE PARTS ARE SUPPLIED WITH A STAINLESS IMPREGNATION FINISH AND CAN BE PAINTED BY THE END USER IF DESIRED.
Download and print PDF of install from download page.

That is from his website directly. My question is where is the 2.5 inches of lift come from. 1.5 inch spacer and .5 spacer is 2 inches not 2.5. Am I missing something?
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by Cable810 » Fri Apr 18, 2014 12:07 pm

Are you asking where they are made?
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by TBYODA » Fri Apr 18, 2014 12:18 pm

In the assembly of the lift you are reusing the factory upper mount spacer which is about .5"

Here is picture from the installations guide. The Lift Shop Install Guides

marks 2_5 (Large).JPG


In comparison the BDS 2" lift kit does not reuse the factory upper mount spacer but the mount is part of the spacer. BTW many member that bought the BDS kit also have installed Mark's .5 top spacer. Which is the max spacer outside the strut you can go.

bds kit (Large).JPG


Mark 3" lift kit does not reuse the factory upper mount spacer either.
marks3lift (Large).JPG
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by JHogg419 » Fri Apr 18, 2014 1:14 pm

Awesome. Thanks guys. Just need to save up alittle more for the 3inch. It looks much stronger than the others any ways.
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by JHogg419 » Fri Apr 18, 2014 1:20 pm

Cable810 wrote:Are you asking where they are made?



Huh? Not at all.
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by The Roadie » Fri Apr 18, 2014 9:57 pm

All wrong answers. The issue is in the geometry. The strut doesn't mount at the ball joint. It's inboard on the LCA, with a longer lever arm to act on. Go look at the design.
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by TBYODA » Fri Apr 18, 2014 10:30 pm

I am confused I never said anything about the ball joint.
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by Trail X » Fri Apr 18, 2014 10:50 pm

The lower control arm is a lever. If you want the end to move down by 2.5 inches, you increase the strut length by about 1.75" due to the struts mounting position closer to the middle of the lever arm. That is where you get 2.5" of lift from around 2" of block. There's some rounding involved with his measurements, I believe. Simple geometry, has nothing to do with including the stock upper strut mount.
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by JHogg419 » Sat Apr 19, 2014 2:32 am

Trail X wrote:The lower control arm is a lever. If you want the end to move down by 2.5 inches, you increase the strut length by about 1.75" due to the struts mounting position closer to the middle of the lever arm. That is where you get 2.5" of lift from around 2" of block. There's some rounding involved with his measurements, I believe. Simple geometry, has nothing to do with including the stock upper strut mount.


That makes perfect sense. Thanks. I am new to the whole lifting scene. I have always slammed everything to the ground and made it go as fast as I could. Time to embrace my redneckness. :shoot: :flex dirty:
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by BowTide » Sat May 17, 2014 2:19 pm

I ordered Mark's 3" suspension lift, anything else i HAVE to do (flip the UCA or shock change)
I do know It has to be realigned....
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by v7guy » Sat May 17, 2014 2:30 pm

You don't have to flip the a arm, or change the shock, or realign it, it'll still roll down the road, but they're all highly recommended if you want to wear tires even, have reduced bouncing out of the front and try to avoid upper balljoint failure.

It would behoove you to check the bushings in the a arms as well.
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