SMaxx Sway Bar Links ...

[Skidder]

I've gotta replace my sway bar links, front and rear, and have been reading the data on the site about the options. I'm leaning toward what I've gathered is the most expensive, yet longer term solution to the issue, SMaxx's links. Unfortunately, when looking through the older 09, 10 posts that come up, I can't seem to find many folks that have reports on these after having them on for a while. Most of the comments are like this one, "I'm about to buy..."

I won't need any disconnect capability, my TB's biggest near-term threat is concrete in parking lots/sidewalks at the local high school once my daughter starts driving next year. My plans are only to lift the front 2" and use Z-71 springs in the back, so I should be fine with the SMaxx links, according to what I've read.

If there are already after action reports on these links, I wasn't able to find them. So, to anyone running these, what has your experience with these been?

[janesy86]

Not sure how many people got those here.. Check out the sister site for more basic stuff like this.

[url]Trailvoy.com[/url]

Should find what you need there as they have a much bigger and broader membership.

[rgraboske]

Those links were what drove my to find Trailvoy and ultimately ORTB. I bought a pair of the fronts in February 2010, about 25,000 miles ago. They are holding up very well. Better than any of the others I've tried.

[Gordinho80]

I think a couple of members here are running the SMaxxx links. I also know that a couple of vendors expressed intentions of making their own, including having test units out.

[The Roadie]

As excited as I was about these at first, they are not staying attached well. I think there's too much friction in the poly bushing area and that tilts the ring part and that in turn ends up loosening the threaded part and then the nut falls off. Even with loctite. I should reinstall them with a drilled stud and a cotter pin. If I ever put the front one back on.

The rear anti-sway bar is just dead weight if you need the articulation. If you don't need the articulation, then there are better sites for that sort of discussion.

[MrSmithsTB]

The rears are a waste of time and money. I broke both of mine, which lead to the eventually permanent sway bar removal. Fronts have been ok. For me, they hold up well and don't limit articulation too an uncomfortable degree. Though, mine is a dd with limited trail use. Some more spirited off readers may not be as satisfied.

[TransAm-98]

We ended up making some a couple months ago. I was rolling around without fronts for awhile but my GF hated driving it like that. Although they are not a quick disconnect style, it does feel a lot nicer having them on while driving mountain roads. Overall I'm really happy we did them. The parts weren't all that expensive and pretty easy to put together.

[The Roadie]

...The parts weren't all that expensive ...

Nice set. Could you put together a parts list with vendor information to help folks follow your lead? Thx!

[TransAm-98]

I THINK these are the sizes I used.

http://secure.chassisshop.com/partdetail/41-78-083/

http://secure.chassisshop.com/partrelate/C73-874-2/

http://secure.chassisshop.com/partrelate/CM8/

[Skidder]

Very nice. Looks like aircraft parts...ever think of making some for others?

[Jimbo121]

What was the length of stock tube u used? How high r u lifted?

[TransAm-98]

I believe it was 3" of tube front and rear. I'll get measurements next time I have it on the lift. I have a BDS suspension lift all the way around with an old MarkMC spacer and 88's up front, Z71's on the spacer in the rear. We might consider producing them a little later on. We are in in the middle of launching our parts website right now on top of all the other cars we have coming through the shop currently. We really like coming up with new ideas and fabricating. But it's only 2 of us trying to balance out tuning, wrenching, phone calls , e-mails and launching a parts website. So finding the time is always an issue. We have discussed coming up with some more parts for you guys though.

[bartonmd]

I believe it was 3" of tube front and rear. I'll get measurements next time I have it on the lift. I have a BDS suspension lift all the way around with an old MarkMC spacer and 88's up front, Z71's on the spacer in the rear. We might consider producing them a little later on. We are in in the middle of launching our parts website right now on top of all the other cars we have coming through the shop currently. We really like coming up with new ideas and fabricating. But it's only 2 of us trying to balance out tuning, wrenching, phone calls , e-mails and launching a parts website. So finding the time is always an issue. We have discussed coming up with some more parts for you guys though.

Yes! PLEASE start making them! The only reason I'm starting to make them is because they need to be made, and nobody's making them! They're worthless if they're not quick-disconnect, but it's not hard to make them QD... Take some 3-1/2" long 1/2-20 grade 8 bolts (Neil tried grade 5 bolts with Kyle's and they broke with not very much street driving), cut the head off of them, take a Cobalt (the material, not the brand) drill bit and put a hole in each one for a 3/16" pin, run a 1/2-20 lug nut down to the end of the threads (for the taper... I didn't do this on my first set, and the regular nut messed up the joints, like yours are going to get messed up) and tighten it as much as possible... Then you get some grade 8 lock washers and put everywhere (seems to need one by the pins, as well), and then top it off with those "interference fit" nuts, so they extra-don't-back-out, and you're good to go... Before assembling, take a flap disc on a grinder, and smooth all of the cuts and holes you made, so the links will slide on and off... Also, make sure your holes in the bolts are exactly in the center, or they'll want to break out one side (Haven't had this happen, because I throw away a bolt that the hole isn't centered in, but it will happen if you don't)...

(please excuse the welding... I did them with my MIG, as I won't have a TIG welder at home for a few months)

[BSalty]

I have had SMaxx for about 14 months. Don't waste your money. I run them because even when I get off pavement most of my driving I don't need the extra wheel travel, and I usually tow a trailer when I go camping (Quads or camp trailer). When I do need the the extra wheel travel I just take off the one nut and zip tie the sway bar up out of the way and re attatch them when I am done.

However that being said, all 4 of mine are bent, a couple of the rubber bushing are already showing wear, and the front drivers side is loose on the swaybar already. I have put about 10k miles on mine.

If your not going to make your own buy from Barton. When my truck funds start back up again in the spring Im ditching these ASAP.

[fishsticks]

I believe it was 3" of tube front and rear. I'll get measurements next time I have it on the lift. I have a BDS suspension lift all the way around with an old MarkMC spacer and 88's up front, Z71's on the spacer in the rear. We might consider producing them a little later on. We are in in the middle of launching our parts website right now on top of all the other cars we have coming through the shop currently. We really like coming up with new ideas and fabricating. But it's only 2 of us trying to balance out tuning, wrenching, phone calls , e-mails and launching a parts website. So finding the time is always an issue. We have discussed coming up with some more parts for you guys though.

Yes! PLEASE start making them! The only reason I'm starting to make them is because they need to be made, and nobody's making them! They're worthless if they're not quick-disconnect, but it's not hard to make them QD... Take some 3-1/2" long 1/2-20 grade 8 bolts (Neil tried grade 5 bolts with Kyle's and they broke with not very much street driving), cut the head off of them, take a Cobalt (the material, not the brand) drill bit and put a hole in each one for a 3/16" pin, run a 1/2-20 lug nut down to the end of the threads (for the taper... I didn't do this on my first set, and the regular nut messed up the joints, like yours are going to get messed up) and tighten it as much as possible... Then you get some grade 8 lock washers and put everywhere (seems to need one by the pins, as well), and then top it off with those "interference fit" nuts, so they extra-don't-back-out, and you're good to go... Before assembling, take a flap disc on a grinder, and smooth all of the cuts and holes you made, so the links will slide on and off... Also, make sure your holes in the bolts are exactly in the center, or they'll want to break out one side (Haven't had this happen, because I throw away a bolt that the hole isn't centered in, but it will happen if you don't)...

(please excuse the welding... I did them with my MIG, as I won't have a TIG welder at home for a few months)

Do0es this mean you're not going to make me a set anymore? I'm finally gonna put the swaybar back on lol!

[TransAm-98]

That's pretty clever Barton. I'll definitely try that that out.

[bartonmd]

Yes! PLEASE start making them! The only reason I'm starting to make them is because they need to be made, and nobody's making them! They're worthless if they're not quick-disconnect, but it's not hard to make them QD... Take some 3-1/2" long 1/2-20 grade 8 bolts (Neil tried grade 5 bolts with Kyle's and they broke with not very much street driving), cut the head off of them, take a Cobalt (the material, not the brand) drill bit and put a hole in each one for a 3/16" pin, run a 1/2-20 lug nut down to the end of the threads (for the taper... I didn't do this on my first set, and the regular nut messed up the joints, like yours are going to get messed up) and tighten it as much as possible... Then you get some grade 8 lock washers and put everywhere (seems to need one by the pins, as well), and then top it off with those "interference fit" nuts, so they extra-don't-back-out, and you're good to go... Before assembling, take a flap disc on a grinder, and smooth all of the cuts and holes you made, so the links will slide on and off... Also, make sure your holes in the bolts are exactly in the center, or they'll want to break out one side (Haven't had this happen, because I throw away a bolt that the hole isn't centered in, but it will happen if you don't)...

(please excuse the welding... I did them with my MIG, as I won't have a TIG welder at home for a few months)

Do0es this mean you're not going to make me a set anymore? I'm finally gonna put the swaybar back on lol!

Yeah, I'll still make you a set...

I'll actually just keep going that direction until T/A starts making them, if he wants to make them...

Mike

[Skidder]

For my current needs, what I need would be like what TransAm-98 built. Meaning, with the TB's mission being to get the kids to school, I won't need the quick disconnect option...say, for at least 2 years. I'll be using Mark's new kit in the front and Z-71 springs in the back. And, I do need to get new links, but, I think I am now gonna pass on the SMaxx. So...TransAm98...is 'little later on' a couple months, or longer than that?

[TransAm-98]

I'll have a talk with co-worker and see what we can do when the site is fully operational. Should be running within the next couple of months though.

[TransAm-98]

Well I played around with Bartonmd's suggestions today and this is what I've got so far. The way I have it is with a permanently mounted stud on the bottom of the end link and another one mounted to the sway bar. I still have to fine tune it as I think there are still some improvements to be made, but this is what I got done today with the little spare time that I had.