Advice prior to order

[v7guy]

I really like them so far.

That's great to hear! Cause you have way more weight then I do in the rear

Matts been checkin out Kyles ass



Rob, Kyle obviously likes the skyjackers, others have left in the stock springs, one guy used a coil over the spring for the rear... it depends
The 3" is a solid aluminum piece with a $10 busing to replace when it wears out, the 2.5 is several spacers stacked inside and outside the factory strut mount. I like the solid piece as opposed to the stacked spacers, but that's just me.

[fishsticks]

Just stating what James told me during my lift research. Z71 and stock springs are the same length uncompressed, so it makes sense that if you go over stock length shocks, the possibility to fall out does exist. The axle only drops about an inch past full stock extension before the springs are loose enough to be pulled out very easily and freely. So on a flex situation with shocks over and inch longer then stock, it could be very easy for the uncompressed spring to get mis aligned and possibly fall out.

-Wahugg

If you add spacers with longer shocks this is moot, but adding longer shocks to only Z71 springs can present these circumstances.

Mine like a little persuasion with a spring compressor to go in, with no spacers top or bottom and BDS white bodies. I highly doubt they're going anywhere, but if one was concerned, I'd sooner recommend they drill a hole in some 1" strap and bolt the spring to the axle perch. Also, 1" longer shock doesn't equal 1" farther axle travel. Stock shocks are terrible, and if you're spending the money on aftermarkets, why skimp on length?

Is the difference in tire size ability between the 2.5" lift level and the 3" that much? What other good quality options are there instead of the z71 in the rear? This is helping a lot, but also making me rethink everything I was set on yesterday!

As stated. you can run Skyjacker c25r's in the rear for about 4" of total lift.


After running a spacer lift kit for a long time I went to springs only. 89s in front and z71s in the rear. With a body lift I still clear 35s. I will not go back to a spacer lift on this platform. My truck does better on several fronts without it. YMMV

[darring70]

Hell, flipping UCA at 3in is mandatory. But recommended at 2in. I'd suggest doing it while you got the strut out anyways. It's an easy and free mod!

Why is that? I have 3" lift /leveling kit but I did not flip my uca. should I do it? Why?
I saw other member that removed their sway bars (front and rear) why is that? Is it not dangerous?

[darring70]

24-103336 Front Bilstein HD Shocks
24-103350 Rear Bilstein HD Shocks
2.5" lift/level kit from Liftmesiter

What is the difference between the rear shocks 24-103350 and 10" 5125 (V255/70)

[v7guy]

Hell, flipping UCA at 3in is mandatory. But recommended at 2in. I'd suggest doing it while you got the strut out anyways. It's an easy and free mod!

Why is that? I have 3" lift /leveling kit but I did not flip my uca. should I do it? Why?
I saw other member that removed their sway bars (front and rear) why is that? Is it not dangerous?

Did you read the 9 page thread at the top of this forum "reversing UCA's (pics)"? It's covered pretty well and specifically addresses your question.

There's a significant amount of info about removing the sway bar. Go to search and type in "swaybar" and select "search by topic", you'll get about 7 decent threads about it.
No swaybars gives you more articulation. Is it dangerous? It is if you drive like an asshole. Some guys like it, others don't, you just have to slow down more on curves, try it out, tell us what you think in one of the swaybar threads.

[The Roadie]

No swaybars gives you more articulation.

Agreed. It's a tradeoff that involves managing your risk. If you use the truck more as a DD, and incident avoidance involving fast swerving is ever a consideration, you might give more weight to keeping it on. If you run around with a roof top tent, as I do, there's another reason to consider keeping the front one on, at least. And getting disconnectable end links for when you're rock crawling.

Articulation is a debatable benefit. Your success on some trails depends on having all the tires on the ground, but that's much more important on some lumpy trails at a steep climb angle than others. Whether you have a G80 is another huge consideration. Whether you even GO on those sorts of trails and whether you're aired down is another.

[mikekey]

We've decided to put our front bar back on and get disconnects. It was fun off road but I think it's increasing wear while the car is in DD mode.

[boog2006]

We've decided to put our front bar back on and get disconnects. It was fun off road but I think it's increasing wear while the car is in DD mode.

Wear on what?

[954gooner]

It's been a while, but I'm 90% sure I'll be going with (unless otherwise advised)

Liftmeister 3" suspension lift
1.5 spacers
Bilstein HD 24-103336 Fronts
Bilstein 24-103350 Rears
Flip the UCA when it's apart for installation
Keep factory springs

What is the difference between the rear shocks 24-103350 and 10" 5125 (V255/70)

I don't think I need them unless I'm using the Z71's. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

If my month of overthinking the hell out of this is right, I should be end up with a level truck, able to fit a 32" tire (on 17s), and ride quality should be fine.

That being said, I'm now wanting to look into spring only lifts. Tack another few weeks onto me ordering anything!

[DustinC1989]

Any amount of lift in the rear using factory length shock is gonna top out more often and wear the shock faster, Z71's or spacers

[954gooner]

Any amount of lift in the rear using factory length shock is gonna top out more often and wear the shock faster, Z71's or spacers

So then a longer strut, such as the Bilsteins for a Tahoe I assume. But what about the springs? With the 3" and longer struts, is it advisable to keep the factory springs, or am I setting myself up for a headache later?

[djthumper]

A lot of what you are asking is already covered other threads on the forums. We have most of the part numbers posted.

[DustinC1989]

A lot of what you are asking is already covered other threads on the forums. We have most of the part numbers posted.

This^

Z71 springs are gonna give a bit stiffer ride and be better for towing/hauling. Even with the Z71 springs you gonna still want the lift spacer. The Z71 springs aren't gonna give you the lift, they are just a better spring for the application.

There are several threads on shocks, just search.
No matter what amount of lift in the rear, you are gonna want longer shocks.

[Opeth]

. The Z71 springs aren't gonna give you the lift....

Not true.

They'll give you about 1" of lift because they are rated for a heaver vehicle, our rear isn't as heavy so the truck will sit higher. Length wise they are the same. If you add the block with the Z71 spring its quite a fun job getting them both in there, coil compressor and removing end links to drop the axle as much as possible.

[DustinC1989]

should have rephrased that, not gonna get the FULL lift from just Z71's

[djthumper]

should have rephrased that, not gonna get the FULL lift from just Z71's

You actually could have a decent lift though small. I have a 2.5" lift all the way around with Z71 and 1.5" spacers.

[DustinC1989]

should have rephrased that, not gonna get the FULL lift from just Z71's

You actually could have a decent lift though small. I have a 2.5" lift all the way around with Z71 and 1.5" spacers.

thats what i meant by not getting the whole lift from just the springs, you are still running a spacer.

if someone is doing a spring only lift and only wants roughly 1" of lift, then the Z71's are a great choice

[HARDTRAILZ]

Z71s suck in my opinion.

[954gooner]

Thank you for all of your opinions. I understand the need for the longer shocks, as previously stated. But what I'm not either finding, or understanding, is do I need new springs, or can I run the stock ones?

Sent from my MB886 using Tapatalk 2

[DustinC1989]

Yes, you can run the stock ones