Offroad Trailblazers and Envoys

New Springs... 88's

BDS, ReadyLift, Smaxx... You name it, we know about it here.

by janesy86 » Wed Aug 04, 2010 1:50 pm

They do look small now!
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by HARDTRAILZ » Wed Aug 04, 2010 1:51 pm

It is probably enough that 35's would work with the rearend centered in wheelwell. But I dont think it is functional
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by MrSmithsTB » Wed Aug 04, 2010 1:54 pm

Tires look fine to me. Not a fan of the ball joint or CV angles.
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by fishsticks » Wed Aug 04, 2010 1:57 pm

MrSmithsTB wrote:Tires look fine to me. Not a fan of the ball joint or CV angles.


His CV angles look OK to me.... hard to see the ball joints.
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by HARDTRAILZ » Wed Aug 04, 2010 2:00 pm

I did flip flop the front tires from driver to passenger. I dont think that would have affected the shimmy factor or if it could be out of alignment bad enough that it could be causing the shimmy. It is only under 30 and on acceleration. I can accelerate slower than normal and it is smooth and I can be going 40, make it downshift and accelerate with no shimmy.
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by MrSmithsTB » Wed Aug 04, 2010 2:07 pm

fishsticks wrote:
MrSmithsTB wrote:Tires look fine to me. Not a fan of the ball joint or CV angles.


His CV angles look OK to me.... hard to see the ball joints.


BJs look pretty much pinned from what I can see. CVs may look "OK", but compared to stock, that is a significant change. Can't see what is going on inside the boots when the truck is going 50+. I might add that I have much respect for both of your efforts. Pushing the limits is not easy, nor is it for the faint of heart. I'm just not confident enough in our components yet to trust they will handle all of these new ideas. I really want the additional lift to work, so I can keep my rear as high as it is right now. :cheers:
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by HARDTRAILZ » Wed Aug 04, 2010 2:12 pm

My balljoints are shot. Wanted to do it this way before flipping and seeing what difference there is.
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by fishsticks » Wed Aug 04, 2010 2:13 pm

MrSmithsTB wrote: CVs may look "OK", but compared to stock, that is a significant change. Can't see what is going on inside the boots when the truck is going 50+



Agreed. I think one assumes that when one lifts, they are sacrificing reliability of certain parts.

I fully expect I'll have to change CV axles sometime sooner than later given the added stress... but mine are still 2002 vintage.
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by MrSmithsTB » Wed Aug 04, 2010 2:18 pm

fishsticks wrote:Agreed. I think one assumes that when one lifts, they are sacrificing reliability of certain parts.

I fully expect I'll have to change CV axles sometime sooner than later given the added stress... but mine are still 2002 vintage.


By lifting, we obviously assume the responsibility of replacing the less adequate parts. My concern is with the stresses caused on the replacements. Will their life be shortened enough to make it not worth it? No way to tell. But how long the stock parts last can be a good indication. I suppose the only way to know is to do.
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by HARDTRAILZ » Wed Aug 04, 2010 2:21 pm

I dont care if they wear faster. I worry about failure on a trail or highway. If they only last 2 months but are safe, I am OK with that. You got to pay to play. I need more lift nd more ground clearance. the only way to get the GC is bigger tires, so I got to get it up. I am trying because I want to see what works, but I also know I am ripping it all out in a few months.
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by Trail X » Wed Aug 04, 2010 2:59 pm

MrSmithsTB wrote:CVs may look "OK", but compared to stock, that is a significant change. Can't see what is going on inside the boots when the truck is going 50+.


The real concern isn't the CV joint, it's the tripod. In general, tripods can handle up to about a 23* offset angle. I think I originally calculated that to be ~4" of lift.

The only way to improve that, is to drop the differential... or get a custom dual CV shaft with a plunge joint. Essentially what's on the left, below.

Image

The CVs and plunge joints aren't hard to come by, the hard part is mating it to a correct spline connector with the proper bearing and seal surfaces.
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by HARDTRAILZ » Wed Aug 04, 2010 3:11 pm

My big thing is that IFS just cant match the strength and performance of a SAS for the price. Decent coilovers, new cv's, and we are in dire need of a way to get more travel.

This experimenting is fun, but to really wheel a trailvoy, we need drastic measures including a real axle and better suspension.
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by Rob93 » Wed Aug 04, 2010 7:46 pm

Is this with the new control arms? so the rear axle is pushed back?
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by The Roadie » Wed Aug 04, 2010 8:27 pm

HARDTRAILZ wrote:This experimenting is fun, but to really wheel a trailvoy, we need drastic measures including a real axle and better suspension.
And you have to upgrade the vehicles you wheel with at the same time. A SAS trailvoy leaves everybody else behind. There's a bit to be said for the companionship of like vehicles who can share many spare parts.
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by HARDTRAILZ » Wed Aug 04, 2010 9:45 pm

The Roadie wrote:
HARDTRAILZ wrote:This experimenting is fun, but to really wheel a trailvoy, we need drastic measures including a real axle and better suspension.
And you have to upgrade the vehicles you wheel with at the same time. A SAS trailvoy leaves everybody else behind. There's a bit to be said for the companionship of like vehicles who can share many spare parts.



True, but I am kind of in no man's land where I dont have anyone built to handle where I like to go. I go with all stright axle vehicles which is probably why I want to sas so bad. The truck really has done well. If I could really run 35's for the ground clearance, it would be different. That said...

The shimmy is gone. Tightened top strut nuts a bit and went ahead and flipped the upper control arms. Ball joints look so much better. The front is down an inch from last night. Drove 20 miles of rough Indy pavement to and from work and it seems to have settled the springs. I think it needs some minor alignment. It looks close, but the top of the tires are slightly pushed out. Gonna wait to see how it sits in a week or two and then align it. Lots more clearance up front.

With new control arms coming to center the rear end, it may allow for larger tires.

I plan to mount the other 3 34's and see how they work at Badlands and maybe try to find some 35's to try. I can always keep the axles and build them in pieces and not hit up savings as bad, then have them locked and cocked when the sas happens.

Would be nice to try and keep the suspension until it truly fails, but the lack of ground clearance hurt this past weekend.

I do have to thank regulator for all the help with the truck this week.
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by MrSmithsTB » Thu Aug 05, 2010 12:44 am

So, what is your overall suspension lift now? I took out the second rear spacers since it looked so goofy, but I will definitely hang on to them to reinstall if I can throw enough additional lift up front to correct the issue. I'd imagine that anything I do will last longer than yours, since you do much more hardcore wheeling than I do. But I sure would love to have the courage that comes with the extra height.
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by Gordinho80 » Thu Aug 05, 2010 8:08 am

I'm currently running what I believe to be 82's or 83's, with BDS spacer and Mark's shim. When I flip my UCAs, I'll probably be upgrading to 86's or 87's. I'm satisfied with my height right now, but I do plan on getting one of Mike's bumpers when available...

Kyle, your truck is looking real sharp! Nice work!
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by HARDTRAILZ » Thu Aug 05, 2010 8:44 am

I think i am about 4 inches suspension. What is a stock fender height? or a stock hub to fender measurement? I can work it out from there.
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by Trail X » Thu Aug 05, 2010 9:21 am

HARDTRAILZ wrote:I think i am about 4 inches suspension. What is a stock fender height? or a stock hub to fender measurement? I can work it out from there.


Stock ground-to-fender is ~33".

Image

That's with 29.5" tires. So it's ~18.25" hub to fender.
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by bartonmd » Thu Aug 05, 2010 9:21 am

HARDTRAILZ wrote:I think i am about 4 inches suspension. What is a stock fender height? or a stock hub to fender measurement? I can work it out from there.


I think I'm one of only a couple people on here who can get the hub-to-fender measurement for you, this evening :finger:

Mike

ETA: tire size will matter when comparing to the ground.
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