Radius arm SAS

[Jrgunn5150]

Looking at SAS'ing the pig this winter, as it will be retired from DD duty this summer or fall.

All the builds I've seen, look too tall to me. I want to keep the windows in it as long as possible.

So, since I have a 5.3, a rear sump pan is a phone call away, I'm thinking of running a Ford D44/9" combo's in a radius arm front/leaf rear configuration (works for Broncos lol).

I only want to run a 35-37" tire, so I really don't need one ton diffs eating up all my ground clearance.

So anyway, thoughts?

[Cable810]

I'd still do one tons IMHO... The guy that swapped with a 44 broke axle shafts and was only running 39s?!?! IRRC Don't get me wrong you still can make a 44 work just have to build it strong. I think some said that the 44 is to light of an axle for our truck.

[ErikSS]

If I go SAS I intend to use a high pinion dana 60. The durability difference is substantial. In my case I would probably keep the SS rear until it starts to fail me. A full float 14 bolt or 60 rear would be my upgrade. I dont have eniugh experience with radius arm suspension to give an opinion. Steves TB os doing some awesome flexing in Four Wheeler magazines Full Size Invasion article.

[Jrgunn5150]

The strength difference between a 44 and a 60 isn't even worth discussing, every single part of a 60 is ludicrously larger and beefier.

My issue with that is the cost, in ground clearance due to the larger pig, and upper clearance, again, due to the larger pig.

I want to stay relatively low, I have trees coming in at crazy angles on trails, and going up only makes things more difficult. Also, I'm concerned about width. Our front WMS is 63", according to info on this site. A Ford D44 is 65, so roughly the same when you add in spacers.

I believe the reason several have steered away from the 44 is due to the 60 pig being offset a greater amount, thus giving more oil pan clearance? But I can easily get a rear sump pan, so clearance in that direction is less of an issue for me.

My reasoning behind radius arms is, one, their simple lol. And two, I can keep it lower than the leaf spring rigs I've seen.

Idk, I need to do some more reading. Plus, I lack sense, so one tons are probably smarter for me, although I'd try to do a 60/70 combo with radius arms

[HARDTRAILZ]

Been sitting on the Ford 44/9 inch combo for years and think it could work with some sense while driving. Full throttle rock bouncing will break an 80 or 14 bolt front or rear. A 44 is much stronger than the IFS many of us beat on with 35s and have no issues. I know plenty of jeeps with 35-40 inch tires strapped to 44's and they don't just explode. I do think 37ish is about the right tire without some upgrades to a 44, but there are lots of strengthening and protection options for 44s if you want to go up a bit more. Plenty of "weak dana 35s" hold up to big tires with a few upgrades and intelligent driving. I do think you could do the radius arms pretty simple and have good function. Being the axles are setup for it...probably a decent option and some lift/stock stuff from the ford could be transferred over and save some pennies.

Its easy to say go one ton, but is not always needed in reality for most.

[Jrgunn5150]

In my mind, the plan is to use a stock width D44HP, Busted Knuckle radius arms, a rear sump pan, Ballistic fab coil buckets, and Deaver Full-size Bronco springs.

I'm not too worried about the strength of a 44 Vs a 60. And, if it becomes and issue I can swap it later.

I just want to keep it low, as possible. I have a list of measurements from a full size Ford at home, I need to get some off my truck now to see if this can easily work

[v7guy]

Have you given any consideration to just a plain ole 3 link up front and a 4 link in the rear?

They're still simple and their pickup points on the chassis are likely going to be in the same general place and it'll likely work a bit better than a radius arm setup. Not that there's anything that wrong with a radius arm setup there's tons out there that clearly work well.

[Jrgunn5150]

A three link front yes. I thought, and correct me if I'm wrong, that a radius arm suspension is pretty easy to convert to a three link at a later time? I was thinking radius arms would be easy(ish) to get in there, and once I had the general SAS kinks worked out, I could convert it to a three link.

As for the four link rear, I haven't thought of that at all really. I mean one benefit of leafs is, you get your instant center, shackle angle, and hang em lol. I could probably adapt a Jk kit pretty easily at a later date. Some of those things weigh like three tons

[v7guy]

Really, a triangulated 4 link in the rear is a bit problematic cause of the gas tank, might be able to squeeze some version of it in there though (I didn't bother, probably should have).

I'm just thinking that with a 3 link it'll probably flex a fair bit better, you'll get better steering outta it since the axle won't skew so much in droop and compression and you'll still be able to easily keep the links outta the way of the motor.

It's an arguably slightly better setup and if you can build it that way to begin with, why not? It'll save you work rebuilding later.

Hell, to be honest even if you build a radius arm setup you'll probably be perfectly content.

Actually, you probably shouldn't listen to me at all, if I'd followed my own advice I woulda been done last fall. FML

[tarsh]

[Jrgunn5150]

I know I'm unhappy now lol...