Big plans for the heavy chevy

[v7guy]

So I have to ask, everyone gave me a hard time about how my route for removing the front diff took to much work, but this was a better option? I did mine by myself in less then 3 hours! That just seems like it was a lot of excess work. Did you use a lift as well?

I dunno if there really is a "great" way to go about it. I think it boils down to what you can get to work personally. It seems like one method that works for one guy doesn't seem to for another.

I'm not so much worried about my speedo personally, as for my safety with the ABS when I do a 4.56 swap.

Yeah, I couldn't give a single shit about the speedo, and definitely not two shits, but the ABS should be retained for something as simple as a gear swap.

[Shdwdrgn]

So I have to ask, everyone gave me a hard time about how my route for removing the front diff took to much work, but this was a better option? I did mine by myself in less then 3 hours! That just seems like it was a lot of excess work. Did you use a lift as well?

3 hours? Does that include already knowing what you're doing? Any chance you can point to a thread where you discussed your method?

[DirtyBacon04]

Yea, I had a 4 point lift, seperate tall lift for the engine and rear axle, power tools, plus a professional mechanic. Start to finish was about 6 hours (including breaks). But like Jeff stated neither him nor I have ever done this before. I didnt want to waste 7 qts of M1 synthetic (only 2k miles) by dropping the pan like the GM instructions say. I'm unfamiliar with how you did it, but I can say that if I and that mechanic had to do it again, we'd have it out in 2 hours, tops.

[Regulator1175]

This was my third removal, so yes that helped a bit. I imagine if I was trying then I could have moved a bit faster. It is going to come out again though, so I will have to time the removal the next time.

I remove

1) fan and shroud
2) alternator
3) idler pully
4) AC compressor (only because I can, I think it could be moved out of the way without having to recover and recharge)
5) half shafts
6) splined disconnect
7) intermediate shaft out the passenger side
8) unbolt and push front drive shaft out of the way
8) loosen but do not remove 2 engine mount nuts
9) lift engine
10) remove front diff and fish it out the front

All of this was done with the vehicle on two engine stands and the rear tires chalked. Just me, and basic hand tools and an air compressor.

[Shdwdrgn]

It seems that lifting up the engine is a pretty common part of this procedure... Can this be done with a regular 3-ton floor jack (since I don't have a hoist available)? Any recommendations on a good spot to put the jack under?

[DirtyBacon04]

standard jack is fine. place a 2x4 on the lifting surface of the jack and then positiion it just aft of the plug. Jack up slowly and minimaly. With Matt's procedure (not removing the nuts, just backing them off) is a safe way to make sure you dont Jack off your engine too far................ giggity.

[v7guy]

With a piece of plywood to spread out the load you can jack on the oil pan

[Shdwdrgn]

Honestly I have an issue with putting the jack under the pan... only because I did that once to a Ford Ranger and ended up having the jack go *through* the pan. Stupid Fords... Ah well, I'll use higher quality lumber this time.

[dvanbramer88]

That oil pan was probably a cheap piece of punched steel. The TB oil pan is thick cast aluminum and is a structural part of the motor. Much stronger.

[Moots1288]

Honestly I have an issue with putting the jack under the pan... only because I did that once to a Ford Ranger and ended up having the jack go *through* the pan. Stupid Fords... Ah well, I'll use higher quality lumber this time.

These pans are cast aluminum a little stronger to jack up from then metal oil pan.

[Shdwdrgn]

No, it was cast aluminum... Something slipped, and the jack punched a hole right through the bottom of the pan. On the other hand, I HAVE jacked up the V8 on my old Pontiac with a board across the steel oil pan, and that held up just fine. Then again, that thing was a beast. Its the only car I've ever seen with an engine skid plate formed directly into the frame.

[Moots1288]

No, it was cast aluminum... Something slipped, and the jack punched a hole right through the bottom of the pan. On the other hand, I HAVE jacked up the V8 on my old Pontiac with a board across the steel oil pan, and that held up just fine. Then again, that thing was a beast. Its the only car I've ever seen with an engine skid plate formed directly into the frame.

So you got to be more careful! That's why you should go with v7guys idea with plywood. It'll distribute the weight better and less chance of anything slipping and punching another hole through a pan.

[Shdwdrgn]

Hey Michael... you still getting ABS errors since you finished up both diffs? Mine seems to go off any time I manage to do a constant speed for more than a couple minutes. I'm all set to do my front this weekend, and like you, I managed to find a professional to 'help' get it done.

Also of note, I told him about my computer problems... he points up the street and says his buddy runs a 4x4 shop in town, has a tech-II scanner available, and has all the information for correcting various models. I will be talking to him as soon as the front diff is finished, and with any luck I'll also get corrected for my wheel size as well. I'll be asking questions and let you know what I find out!

[DirtyBacon04]

Yea, I'm still getting it after about 5 minutes of driving. Also no cruise control, even before ABS/Brake lights come on.

[Shdwdrgn]

Ah, I never use my cruise, so I hadn't noticed that. Well, crossing my fingers this guy knows his shit and can give me the answers on fixing the problem...

[Shdwdrgn]

Bacon -- 7 hours? You suck so bad I want to hurt you. Took me well over 20 hours, but I'm finally done and road-tested. So much pain...

[DirtyBacon04]

LOL! Sorry. Thats the benefit of having power tools, i suppose. You should hate Gordinho. He said it took him like half an hour with only a screwdriver and a pint of beer.

[Shdwdrgn]

Yeah a good impact wrench definitely would have cut a day off this job. That, and already having all the right sockets.

[Trail X]

A list of the socket sizes - that's for sure something we could use!

[Shdwdrgn]

Bacon, you had any luck on reprogramming for your new gears? I chased leads around town today and finally ended up at a shop that does transmissions and 4x4 mods, who have a tech II scanner. They played with it for awhile, but the only settings they could find were to change the tire size (which had almost zero affect on the problem). The owner of the shop got into it, and he is making a call to someone he knows who is a world-certified GM tech... hopefully this will be my final stop in chasing this rabbit and I can finally get the problem corrected.

I DO intend to ask questions and get answers as to exactly how this issue gets fixed, and will share what I find out. Hopefully at this point its just a matter of going down the right menus in the tech II.